BLDC is capable of shotgunning slightly more power given the same current settings as FOC, albeit it’s less efficient due to using square wave vs a sinusoidal wave. This is also why BLDC is noisier.
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Hey All. Went down a steep hill and one of my motors started cogging shortly after:
Anyone experienced anything similar? I gave the motor a cursory once over and didn’t see any evidence of damage externally. Am I on track to think its possibly:
- a broken hall sensor
- a broken sensor wire
- a broken phase connection
What’s the most likely scenario?
Spin it by hand, does it feel normal? You’re looking for stiffness, clicking, catching, grinding
If it feels fine try running sensor calibration again
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No resistance or other untoward shit going down. I’ll run calibration again in the AM and hopefully that resolves the issue. Thx @ZachTetra 
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So I have a 10s3p pack from my BKB duo that needs a new BMS. Does anyone know what BMS is used or have any suggestions on what BMS I should pick up?
Do you know if it’s wired bypass or discharge?
LLT BMS or Daly
In theory FOC should be more powerful, but the vesc implementation I think is not getting the maximum performance from FOC. Normally very precise position sensing with an encoder is needed for FOC to work best, from what I’ve read
if u must monitor pgroup voltage, then LLT, if not, Daly is good enough
I assume these are your 6485s?
Is there a max limit on how much amps you can give em? What’s the limiting factor here
Edit: also… really fucking cool
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I can’t tell but I believe discharge is by passed. The PCB on the original is burnt so I can’t read the labels.
Does the amp rating not matter on the bms if I’m bypassing discharge?
Limiting factor is usually the motor controller for burst current. On the dyno we’ve had 8.4kw put through one of these motors with still 70% efficiency putting out 6kw at the shaft.
But they will overheat if the current is high for too long. It really depends on a lot of factors like rider weight, drag, ambient temperature, gearing etc
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Hey again! I was about to put my skateboard together when I noticed that I had lost my 80 mm kegel orangatan wheel that was partially assembled with the wheel pulley, with it I also lost the belt and the motor pulley. I was looking at kits online but most seem to be out of stock or located in the US. I live in europe so a lot of options are not available or ridiculously expensvie when you take into account shipping & import costs, which I want to avoid.
I have a 3D printer and saw some files available for a wheel pulley: Flywheels Modular Pulley Kit by mmaner - Thingiverse, but still need a motor pulley and a belt. Also a new wheel. It’s hard to find just 1 Orangatan 80 mm wheel, so I would probably have to buy 4 or settle for some other brand (which I would also appreciate to get recommendations on)
If someone knows a reputable place that sells kit and/or wheels that fit such kits , please don’t hesitate. I would really appreciate it.
Also, my previous pinion spur gearing was apparently sub-optimal for my motor Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6374-192kv Brushless Outrunner Motor (hobbyking.com), so getting a new gearing kit might not be so bad after-all
I found my 275MM 5M belt, so I was looking at pulleys but not really understanding how to match the teeth on the pulleys with the teeth on the belt. The belt has 55 teeth. How do I know what ratios I can do for the pulleys, like will 36/14 work? 40/15? How do I figure this out? Thanks 
Make sure to select metric
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Thanks. I am little bit confused. The motor mount kit I bought (which included the mount, belt, and two pulleys) came with a belt of length 275 MM (HDT 5mm). The center distance is roughly 85 mm. I really can’t see how the belt can fit unless I drop the large pulley down from 36 to 28 and the small to 14. Which would mean it wouldn’t be very fast.
What kit did you buy?
i’ve been starting to recommend this website instead of bbman, since their website can break easily
its also less things to select, just punch in numbers
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It actually looks like it was wired for discharge through the BMS but it’s hard to tell bc of thr burt pcb. In any case, if you wire for charge only and bypass the bms for discharge, the amp rating does not matter. You still need to pay attn to the charge rating though to make sure you don’t exceed that.
And WTF happened to your bms bro?
It was years ago; from a guy that was selling parts from his board. So the parts that he sold me are supposed to go together. I mean, I can always buy a bigger belt should that be the issue that it isn’t long enough, right?. I came to the conclusion that as long as the pulleys have the same distance between the teeth, the belt should fit the teeth and the length of the belt would adjust the fit. So I was thinking of going with a 36T/16T setup. I either print the 36T, buy a new set of wheels (as I can’t get just 1 wheel) and buy the motor pulley 16T.
I also found HTD 5M 36/38/40/42 Teeth Nylon Carbon ABEC 11 CLONES Wheel Pulley - Electric skateboards parts by Eskating this as well. This site also sells wheels & the smaller pulley. So they are supposed to go together. Together I would pay 100 euros for the two pulley and the set of wheels. Which of course I do not want to pay, but I can’t find any cheaper store in europe. Does anyone know a reputable cheaper store?
so as I see it
- Buy Orangatang wheels separetely for about 75 euros, buy the motor pulley for about 22 euros incl shipping and 3D print the wheel pulley
or - Buy the wheels, the wheel pulley and the motor pulley from that site for 100 euros
If there are cheaper alternatives please don’t hesitate