Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

That cutting mat is sweet!

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It’s not what it sounds like. He just puts bullet connections on the B-/Ch- connections so it can be easily swapped out. I did something similar for a bike battery where I couldn’t fit the bms in the battery box.

Edit: way late to the party lol. I had that comment in draft way too long

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Yeah I saw the pic then u instantly know what he meant. It’s actually a good idea, I might copy it one day

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If you’re stuck for space and can’t have your bms inside the enclosure it makes it a lot easier to charge without having to fuck around too much. If it’s inside the enclosure I’d say you’re adding more potential points of failure but maybe I’m just being anal :man_shrugging:

Is the battery from Mboards as well?

Good points, but having every seperate part of a board be easily maintainable is a bonus. Sometimes it’s more hassle than it’s worth, but i like connectors on the bms where appropriate.

I don’t like bullet connectors on batteries tho… just feels dangerous.

I set them up like this

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Ya that looks like a solid harness. And I agree re the bullet connectors. If one comes loose you have exposed metal boucing around inside your enclosure right next to your pack.

Yes, I got the battery from Mboards

Beard has stepped up his battery game quite a bit I see…

Ya you’ll definitely need a multimeter before u can do any troubleshooting. I’d suggest not cheaping out too much here. It’s kind of a key tool when DIYing PEVs. I use this one and it’s very solid for the price and also compact:

UNI-T UT210E Pro Mini Digital Clamp Meter, Auto Ranging TRMS Backlit VFC NCV Meter, AC/DC Current Voltage Frequency Resistance Capacitance Diode Tester with Test Leads Zip Bag https://a.co/d/4LDDMz7

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How long did it take for you to receive the battery from Mboards? It’s been 2 weeks since I ordered mine.

It took much longer than expected though I don’t really remember how long. Maybe 3-4 weeks but I believe I purchased mine over a holiday weekend.

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I’m sorry but…they’re trolling with these, right?

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Wow, double cross overs…

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When one isn’t spicy enough :rofl:

Tbf, the series connections are that much taller that the crossovers are pretty much inconsequential

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i like modularity, if a component fails, i can easily replace it without much effort. but of course, its always better to build things that last.

modularity also allows quick swap / modification if everything is built to same standard, which can enhance the experience or adapt to certain needs.

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Hahahaha hory sheet I def didn’t take a close enough look lmfao. I stand corrected. Beard’s batteries look much better but he’s got some chimps doing the handiwork clearly.

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Fair enough and I like the harness the Al uses bc it’s also robust and safe but how often are you swapping out BMS’s practically speaking? In any case I agree modularity is always favourable as long as it doesn’t impact the needed robustness of an esk8 pack.

in theory, probably once every few years. a battery pack will degrade and age to unusable state, but bms should still be good to use on a new pack. :man_shrugging:t2:

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Has anyone found there to be a point of diminishing returns when it comes to heatsink thickness? My thinking is that pretty much anythickness will eventually be saturated at which point all that really matters is the area exposed to the air to dissapate heat. Is that a reasonable assumption? Am i likely to see a significant difference in performance between a 1/2in 12mm and 1in 25mm heatsink on a 60D assuming both have the same exposed bottom area?

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Thickness doesn’t really matter with heatsinks, it’s all about surface area. More surface area = more thermal transfer. Thermal mass only prolongs the saturation point. It’s best to have a high ratio of surface area to mass