Ohh thx! I tought P would be the parallel group and C the cells per parallel group. But this make sense. So for li-ion 10s3P I should fill in 10C right?
I don’t know, but “10c” is the first thing I would try, and see if it works correctly.
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So after much negotiation with my partner about buying an eskate i convinced her that DIY would be cheaper as i would be spreading the costs out over a period of time while i build.
my cells for the battery arrive soon and i should be finished the build by the weekend. my only real grey area i have atm is with the vesc settings, I’m a heavier lad ( 115kg) and and id like something that is fun to start off with but wont murder me straight away. later on i can always re-tune if i want to get more aggressive.
current component build specs are below
MBS metal matrix 2 trucks
mbs 5 star hubs with offroad tyres
hoyte puck
2x reacher 6386 205kv motors
boardnamics m1at gear drive running a 4.6 ratio
BKB xenith vesc
12s8p battery using Vapcell k40 cells.
thanks in advance
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The matrix ii are gonna bend… i am heavy about 260lb and went with the trampa solid hanger.
Also the 4.6 is too low for 8 inch tires. Go with boardnamics or apex 5 and up to 1. Motors seem good but kv is too high.
All of the above is my experience as a heavy guy but someone might have a different opinion.
Edit: none of this is vesc setting related but if you had different motors and more torque it could be.
I originally looked at trampa trucks but the shipping to Australia was criminal and i couldnt justify it. The rest of my component’s were what i could get as the market is pretty small for diy boards in Australia.
I just recently programmed a VESC for the first time and I was given the excellent advice of “run the setup wizard. Go for a ride. Adjust accordingly. And also adjust your absolute max battery current” bc it’s always ludicrously high for some reason. The wizard started my motor current at 62/-62. Went fot a ride and bumped it up to 70/-70 and then up to 80/-80 pretty quickly.
Also, remember when setting battery current that you’re splitting what you want your total current to be as the tool is asking your for the current for each side of the controller.
Famous last words bro. It’s gonna take longer than u think… adjust your expectations so you don’t get frustrated and bin the whole damn thing lol.
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Haha i have a week off from work to lock myself away and focus on the battery.Everything else is assembled, torqued, and loctited.
If it all goes to poo ive been waititng few months already to finish this, another few days to do things right isnt going to kill me.
Ya nah I still stand by my statement lol especially if this is your first pack. In any case, post each stage of ur progress in the battery builders thread. Really important for your first go around. Good luck bro! Rootin fer ya 
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DIY is absolutely not cheaper. But it can be a lot better. It can also be worse.
This is true though. Mind your order of operations for best spread.
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For AT what’s a good size battery?
I have a 10s, 12s and a 13s BMS I can use, it I can get something else (20s? 16s?)
I’ll be getting the ESC last.
I’ve got about 80 or 90 cells to work with. Lishen LR2170LA.
This build will be all about torque. 2wd until I can afford a 2nd drivetrain.
Battery will be top mounted probably in a Pelican case or something like that.
I second this. It’s going to take like 4 months longer than you think. If you’re lucky.
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Personally feel like 12s6p p42a is pretty much a minimum for AT. Unless its just a shop runner or for a kid
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Is 12s the sweet spot? If I have the cells and space should I go wider or taller?
Yeah i knew that too but its was more of a “creative accounting” sort of cheaper.
This is where im at build wise. Battery will be top mount and all components match up well.
Wiring will be recessed unter the grip tape to keep it clean looking
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Personal preference i suppose 
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You’re correct, the “vesc tuning” is being able to set the acceleration and brake settings on the remote. I was disappointed tbh but 60A feels nice in comparison to the Ownboard Zeus pro 50A.
As long as your hangers are wider than your deck, your truck is kinda planted on the ground, and hanger length shouldn’t matter. Even if you had a 1km long hanger, it doesn’t mean your bushing would be super easy to squish. Deck width is what you should use as the length of the lever arm.
But when the trucks are narrower than your deck – then your wheels can start lifting off the ground if you lean too far, and both the width of the trucks and the width of the deck come in to play imo.
(Also, when swapping from hypertyrucks to matrix 2s – check if the bushing distance from the center hasn’t changed. That would definitely changed the ratio of the lever arm)
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So I am going camping and I wanna bring my board to hit some country roads,
my question is if it’s okay to keep the board in the car throughout the day.
Temperature 84-60 degrees Fahrenheit.
About 25-30°C
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So that would be the limit as far as too hot ?