Get some paste flux when you grab the solder, helps a lot, i use SRA rosin paste flux and am kinda unimpressed but it gets the job done and cleanup extra flux with 99% isopropyl.
If you use too much flux it will wick up an inch or more into your wire so just use enough to get all the ends of the strands clean, no big gobs
Sounds like a thermal transfer issue, the tips that come with that one don’t look especially beefy.
You can have a 700c 200w iron, but if the tip is too small to make good thermal contact it still won’t work.
Soldering big wire is a race against heat loss - You have to put enough heat into the wire fast enough to get it hot enough for solder to flow, but at the same time heat is conducting up the wire and away from your iron. The faster you can get the heat in there, the less overall heat you need.
I highly recommend soldering irons that have the heater, temperature sensor and metal tip all combined into a single unit, like Hakko’s FX-888D which uses their T12 system of interchangeable tips. There are a ton of Chinese knockoff soldering stations that also use those same T12 tips, and their performance is on par with the Hakko for a lot less money too.
My favorite tip for soldering big wire is a fat chisel or wedge like a C4 or D4.
Probably a dumb question, but why are tire seats mostly flat? I would have assumed a more semi-circular shape would have been better to match the contour of a tube, leading to less stress along the edges and less chance for flats.
Hiya all, how long can you leave a Lithion-Ion battery (12s4p/40T cells) without charging/discharging it? - essentially without using it all. Will the cells deteriorate/ become volatile?
I plan to sell it but ive not used it for some time, just want to get an idea so as to price it accordingly.
ok right, makes sense. is there a way to test the pack to see what condition it’s in (it has a smart BMS and I have a multimeter if that could help)? or would it be a matter of simply describing it in the ad, for example, i.e Pack for sale, not used for a year, had 20 charging cyles, etc etc?
smart bms like llt can show each pgroup voltage, that’s the fastest way to tell if the pack is balanced or not. it is recommended to store battery around 3.6v per cell / pgroup, so just times whatever series u got to get the ideal voltage the pack should be at
I’m wondering if a cell in the 11 series p group is failing, and preventing that p group from getting a full charge.
If it were my pack I’d check the nickel for loose welds, then manually charge group 11 using a CC/CV power supply at 3.6v, then fully charge the whole thing using the BMS to see how it balances. If all checks out I’d run a few charge/discharge cycles on it to make sure that group doesn’t keep drifting.
It should under ideal circumstances but with a delta that large it could take a loooong time. Like a few weeks. Also, if you get it balanced, and then using the pack unbalances it again, then it means it’s likely junk.