Yeah this, also because there’s no point to even shipping a battery if it’s not ever going to work correctly.
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@b264 @xsynatic guess ill sell it as junk/broken and see if anyone with battery building skills is interested. ive no plans to buy all the gear to fix it since im leaving the hobby anyway
I have a great offer for you. If you pay shipping, I’ll safely dispose of it for you for free.
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Ill think about it
They have a bit of a fillet to them but automotive tire hubs use the same style of flange more or less.
Scary how little of the bead makes contact wrt the pressures we use though 
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Eh auto tires are tubeless though, so they don’t need to support anything but air. I was talking about the center part, not the bead/flange.
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I’d say ease of manufacture (easier to make straight and/or conical than to make curved), and also unnecessary - I dunno about you but I’ve never had a flat from the tube touching the rim/hub, only from external factors like hitting a curb or getting a puncture.
Sure it might be technically better, but the perfect is the enemy of the good. The current design is good enough and isn’t causing problems, so why change for no obvious benefit?
What material are you guys using on your 3d printed risers?
Soo I’m trying to get some wire (22awg) into my buck converter terminal blocks (with screw), but when I’m pulling it (to see if it’s tight enough) I got the feeling the clamp isn’t good enough. So I’m looking for another solution. Now I do have some crimping eyes (don’t know the real name) and I bent them so they would fit the hole. The connection is way stronger in my opinion, but I’m curious if this would be a good solution or not and if not what would be better instead 
here some pictures: (I know I didn’t crimp it well with those wires coming out at the end)
If I don’t plan on swapping around the cables i would remove the terminal block and solder the cables directly to the pads.
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Hi peeps , been reading around but i couldnt find anything on motor-bearings and what their life-expectancy is … sorry if it’s been discussed already .
I never ride in wet conditions and road only. I’ve already done thousands of miles with the Maytech motors the Flux comes with.
They’re getting “noisy” but spin nicely ! I dont want them dying in the middle of a 65km trip.
What’s the life expectancy/mileage of motorbearings when “nicely treated” ? Can they be oiled ? Thanks dudes 
There is a good write-up of replacing motor bearings here. They do wear out eventually.
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For small stuff i want to keep as a terminal block and not directly soldered, fine stranded copper or tinned wire should be put in a crimp ferrule imho. Just Tinning the wire and landing under the screw terminal fails in even low vibration environments because lead is soft and i think (haven’t researched it) thermal cycles loosen it up and that’s why it fails me. A dab of silicone will keep the screw torqued but heavily soldered wire will still back out.
Just for clarification, i am speaking about tinning the wire and puttIng it under the screw and not directly soldering here. Directly soldering will hold well.
Linked is the crimp im using now, i like the square shaped ones and the business end pointing out instead of the ones that come in from the side but they both crimp well.
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Just solder it if you don’t want it to fail.
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Kinda freaking out here.
Board was working perfectly fine. Groups were balanced and performance was perfectly as expected.
Then all of a sudden no power and only one motor would spin slightly.
Anyone know what might have happened? I’m omw home to tear into her. She was fully charged and everything.
… Did my BMS blow up?
100% solid tpu if you want some shock absorption, petg if you don’t
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That 150C temp is worrisome.
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Yeah but it’s the same on both temp sensors, and it’s not fluctuating, Nd both are exactly 150C which all leads me to believe there is an error. I don’t have a hex on my to open the enclosure up until I get home but there’s no noticeable heat anywhere except directly under the ESC, and even then only a tiny bit of heat
I feel like the balance plug may have become disconnected, or something, maybe the XT90S blew up…, idk I feel like it’s a connection issue… I hope it’s a connection issue… The only thing making me feel any better right now is that the board isn’t a fireball yet.
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