Speedrings, depending on from where you buy them, can vary a lot too. 0.6mm to 1.1mm I’ve seen. You can use this to your advantage if you need something really close. Although I typically haven’t needed them that close.
You can also get the copper ones, and put one of those in the stack, and it will compress when you tighten the axle nut to make an exact fit. The copper ones are really malleable though.
My b I only use 10mm shafts these days.
Hi, all. My board came down with sudden onset “shit’s broke” syndrome. Was working fine indoors, then wheeled it down the hall and outside (on the rear, so the esc was seeing back EMF, I guess?), and the throttle would not respond correctly.
Gear: makerX HV200 on 20s, 80100 130kv motor, ADC control (hall sensor + 1k pulldown resistor)
Symptoms:
At first the motor responded erratically (sudden starts/stops/reverse) and then became unresponsive. Took it back inside and…
VESC tool shows ADC1 frozen at ~2.06V, unresponsive to input
throttle signal is fine according to my voltmeter, varies smoothly from 0 - 2.8V
in Input Setup Wizard, ADC2 (so far unused) reads throttle correctly
It’s pretty clear ADC1 is fried but the question is why? Can BEMF do that? Is the connection to ground from my pulldown resistor the issue? I have a robust antispark (caps charge over ~5sec), so I don’t think power surge is the issue.
What are my options? This thread indicates that using ADC2 for throttle input would require a custom compiled .bin file, not sure how to start with that. I can always use an Arduino Nano to convert my analog throttle signal into PPM, but obviously that’s less than ideal.
EDIT: also, the app often disconnects saying “can’t read firmware version”. Not sure if that started at the same time but it’s certainly odd. The firmware is the latest default file.
Is the connection to ADC1 good? Misaligned pin on the connector or something like that? Maybe plug it in and try to measure voltage on the pin under the connector. Can you test with a PWM remote, or the vest tool to verify motor function?
Dragging it shouldn’t have caused any problems at that speed as the back EMF would be just a few volts.
The HV200 is based off the A200S v2 from TeamTriforceUK. The v2 was open hardware so the schematics are available and are nearly identical to the MakerX and Flipsky version since they used those schematics.
The ADC1 and ADC2 is a direct trace to the STM32F405… so if ADC1 is truly not working, either that pin on the STM32 isn’t fully soldered or that input failed and the chip likely needs to be replaced.
One other things to consider…
The original A200S v2 design uses phase shunts and was only rated to 75v due to 3 limitations. Capacitors (75v), mosfets (75v), and the current sense amp (80v). MakerX only upgraded the capacitors and mosfets to 100v, but there really aren’t any current sense amps above 80v on the market, so they left the 80v INA240A1 on (confirmed on my unit).
I don’t think that is related to your ADC issue, but I’m curious how it will hold up running 20s (84v).
@jaykup thanks for the detailed response
Yes, I can spin the motor fine with the Arduino middleman on PPM.
No traces are exposed for me, but I probed the 5th pin from the left on the bottom of the chip (PA5 on the STM docs) and I get a frozen voltage of ~1.8V. Busted trace I guess? Seems weird for a single trace to cause vesc tool connection issues, that part would make more sense as a chip failure.
About the phase shunts, makerX recommends running with phase filters off to avoid damage, which I’ve been doing. Is that related to the 80V rating?
Since it’s randomly disconnecting from the vesc tool, and adc1 isn’t working, it seems to point to the STM32 chip. You can test the trace by putting the meter in continuity mode and testing from the connector pin to PA5, or check throttle voltage at the pin/pad under the connector (I think those ones are surface mount?) then again at PA5 and see if they are different.
Two unrelated issues. The official 75/300 phase shunts hardware had phase filters but were not implemented into the software until 5.3. On 5.3 it’s left on as default, so any phase shunts designs that didn’t have phase filters (many) didn’t work right with it enabled.
That could also have been solved by MakerX creating their own hardware config in the main firmware branch where they could specify phase filters to be off. Last I read they were working on that for 6.0.
The 80v limit comes from the current sense amps which are needed with phase shunt designs. Since the HV200 still has this 80v chip, I don’t see how it could handle the rated 100v.
Ok, so I have no continuity from the ADC1 socket to anywhere on the chip, but I do have it for ADC2.
gee wish I knew that before speccing a build around this ESC 
oh well, get what ya pay for I guess
Think it’s safe to ride still?
If that’s the case you could probably run a tiny wire from that pin to the stm chip, to recreate that trace.
I plan on using the HV200 with 18s, but haven’t finished/ridden it yet. 20s is so close it may just work. Maybe only charge to 80v resting, and avoid regen on a full charge
I really wouldn’t trust my soldering skills for that, or the strength of that joint even if I did pull it off…
Well it has been working for a few weeks, guess it gave up the ghost after a few charge cycles.
Got another newb question.
This next build is a 12S3P build so it’s not pulling crazy amps out of the pack. (Short commuter/cruiser deck)
I usually heatsink all my builds but space in the enclosure is at a premium for this one.
With my current pack size and motors probably set to 30 amps do you think a heatsink is critical for this build?
How many battery amps are we talking and what esc
Yep. Sorry missing pertinent info in my thread haha.
It’s a Sony vtc6 12s3p… cell is good for 20amp cont so 60 amp pack.
And I’m using a focbox unity (pre-bankruptcy production)
The VTC6 is rated at 15A by Sony and Murata. It can be used at 20A but the voltage sag will be pretty large and will shorten your range. It’s not good for the cell either.
As a general rule, if you want to know what a cell can do, take your favorite search engine and type “mooch test VTC6” or whatever cell it is.
Or trust the numbers from the folks profiting from sales… (jk don’t do this)
Would the combination of these two work for sleeving together 3 phase wires + sensor wires on my motors? The phase wires are 12awg and the one containing the sensor’s wires is around the same size.
I’d say 3/4" is probably too big. On my old board I used 1/2" and it was fine, and you might even be able to get away with 3/8".
(the nominal measurement is in the long and skinny state, so it will easily get probably double the diameter when you smush it to stuff wires down it.)
Also you almost certainly want larger heatshrink than 3/32" (2.4mm) heatshrink if you want to use the heatshrink to secure the ends of the sleeving. I’d say you want at least 1/2" or 5/8" for that.
Guess the link got messed up somehow. That’s supposed to be 1" stuff. seems like i basically want to drop a 1/4in off both the sleeving and heatshrink’ssizes in that case. Thanks for the suggestions
@Jaydawg56, never, do this!
It’s the single best way to get the most outdated info available. Search engines prioritize based on popularity. And what are the most clicked-on pages for my testing? The oldest ones!
If you want to maximize the odds of getting bad data, use a search engine. If you want the latest info, just bookmark this link: Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum
I still can’t understand why no one bookmarks anything and keeps Googling my results, over and over, consistently getting old info that leads them to making bad decisions. It’s been a battle I’ve been fighting, and losing badly, for many years and I’m mystified why.
Because we are disorganized 
If I bookmarked everything, I’d have 817864 bookmarks and have to use a search engine on my bookmarks
That bookmark has.a.ton.of.info, haha. Thanks for that.
So, I do have a question for you since I have your ear (and eyes)…. Most if not all cells will state a discharge rate and a discharge rate sustained up to a certain temp (vtc6 is 30amp up to 80 deg Celsius.
From how I understand Esk8 packs you’ll rarely see a sustained draw but rather spurts. If that is the case, what’s a good general rule of thumb? Just to go with the lower stated rating so it’s applicable for all scenarios when you’re riding (hills, wind, temp, etc.).
Or can you determine an amp rating that finds the sweet spot (i.e. vtc6 is 15(or 20 depending on what site you are looking at) and 30amp up to 80deg cel… so I say 20 when determining my per cell amp draw.
I know theres sole flaw in my logic… please set me straight! Lol
