1/2" is perfect for 3 phase and sensors.
3/4" is tight but works fine for 6 phase and 2 sensors.
I even used a cute little pants shaped heat shrink to make the transition from 2 to 1.
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I recommend using, at the most, the continuous current rating. Even for applications where the current draw is in bursts. This will help to reduce the voltage sag that robs you of run time, helps to extend cell life, and reduces the risk of using the cell as it ages. It’s much more than just worrying about the cell overheating and possibly venting.
But for most cells running at the continuous current rating, even for bursts, results in just too much voltage sag. The rating is a limit, not a recommendation. It is to be avoided. 
Typically, running up to about 75% of the continuous rating gives you decent efficiency. For ultra-high capacity cells (over 3000mAh 18650 and over 4500mAh 21700) you want to stay about 50% of the continuous rating or lower.
Some people go higher than this, due to cost or size restrictions for the pack. That’s okay as long as they know what they are giving up when doing that. It’s easy to have an efficient 25A 2500mAh cell run for longer than a 15A 3000mAh cell if the current draw is too high.
Though, cells can run MUCH hotter in a wrapped up pack than when alone in open air (how the ratings are set). Lowering the current rating needs to also be done for this if cell life is important.
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Where from did this come?
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I need a hand with wiring up some lights to 12v for a friend. here’s my current schematic:
T= Tungsten
B= White
I have 2 lights wired in parallel, and yes they’re 12v lights.
the battery/power supply will do 12V or 24V
my issue is that I can only get the lights to blink on for a moment at the exact second power is connected/switch is flicked. they don’t stay on.
Looks like + and - is swapped in the drawing. I doubt it is in the circuit though
I just forgot to make the lights V- into the V+ it’s supposed to be. white and tungsten are - and common is +
What kind of lights are they?
Add a 470Ω resistor inline maybe?
Post photo of lights
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Test the switch for conductivity.
Ok they seem to actually do the same flicker without the switch
Tested switch and it has good continuity
Will grab a resistor soon and try that.
A fancy shmancy online heat shrink shop that I can’t find the name of.
Search terms are “cable pants” or “cable breakout boot” though.
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I don’t think those are shrinkable. But look at this
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its says Insulated Heat shrinkable Tube Shrink Ratio2:1 in the product name 
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It looks like non-shrinkable PVC that comes with additional heatshrink tubing
Considering getting Dopegrip Pro grip tape - Can anyone recommend for or against it? its going on a RE44 so it needs to be at least ~11.5in wide.
Vicious is the dopest grip.
I thought frit was the hot new shit?