Yep. I used a wood drill bit to counterbore just a tiny bit on the topside to keep them flush. Youre right that theyre not waterproof due to the through hole, but ive given up on caring about water resistance haha, my boards die regardless.
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I used these t-nuts. And i put a small piece of tape over the threaded hole from the top, and poured epoxy over it, sanded down, then painted. So it’s possible to make also these sort of water proof. Atleast no problem from the top side. 
Also. I would not hammer them down. Use a bolt, and a nut, and tighten them down and in. Also, in hard wood, i would put a small pre-drill for the tabs/spikes so they go in without bending.
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Man fuck those inserts. The teeth always bend and they shred the wood.
Use wood glue and brass inserts with an appropriately sized pilot hole and butyl tape over top. Best results.
Use butyl rope/tape inside the boltholes and you won’t ever have water ingress problems again.
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Like i said. In hard woods. Pre-drill for the tabs/teeth.
I installed 14 without issues, and have done so with furniture making a long time. No problems.
I got my first battery pack ready and it seems to work… (the cellcs came delivered with ~20% charge/ 3,53V) and I have been charging the pack over the esc for the last few hours (currently using the lab power supply battery charging setting).
How do I get to connect to the bluetooth module? it looks like it has an led on it but I cannot see any light on the whole thing and only hear some noises from the bms. Some sizzle, high pitch and kind of quiet.
I have only found instructions on how to get the different versions of the bluetooth app online but nothing about how to activate or connect to it. There is also no button anywhere (only some lose wires that can be connected like a switch). Do I have to charge the pack to 100% first time maybe to activate the bms for bluetooth or something??
You don’t have to activate anything, if it’s LLT, all you have to do is open the app and hit scan and it’ll show up there
even while charging? because I got the “newest version” of their app Version 3.1.1020 and it just refreshes and finds nothing in the app
no connecting over the phone bluetooth menu frist?
no led to see the bluetooth activated on the module? and yes its LLT
oke… I think I figured it just out… it needs gps to be active?! then something shows up and i can select it. but it wants some password that I dont have set. is there any admin password for first setup?
That could be true, sometimes the apps use location permission to locate nearby bluetooth devices
I don’t remember, try 0000, 1234, and 123456
Or look on the LLT website it might say there
Yes I just guessed 123456 as it asked for 6 digits and it just worked ^^ thank you! but weird with the gps permissions as I never had that before! Also… is it ok to charge my packs with the lab bench supply just over the bms? I current limited it to 1,5A and 42V as well as used the battery connectors on it.
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That should not be an issue as long as your pack is 10s
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Would this be a reasonable type of gasket to use for an enclosure install? The enclosure in question is a DS eboosted enclosure for a redember 44.
Yeah, that should work nicely.
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What do people like to inflate these to?
Tire says 36psi, but the same size off-road knobbies are 60psi… I usually run about 50psi
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So not exactly a beginner but my question is what I’d call a “dumb” question so: Does it really matter if my wheels are no longer a perfect cylinder? My front trucks ended up slightly bent a while back after getting run over by a car and they actually turned better after the fact. However, now 1000+ miles later my wheels are now slowly turning into cones.
I don’t think it is causing any handling issues, but if it does cause issues what would they be? I have another unused set I can swap them with but the replacement parts ended up being lower quality than my OG parts so I haven’t swapped the front wheels out.
I considered flipping them but haven’t been in the mood to test out anything that could be a bad idea/ turn out poorly.
Even hot glue can work to seal an enclosure for a battery so I don’t see why that wouldn’t work. (Don’t use hot glue on a metal ESC enclosure though since it could get too warm and melt the glue)
If u have seen the shape of the hollow wheels, then u would know there might be slight benefit of having a cone shape wheel while cornering.
Idk how much it actually affect with just regular riding, but have a read in that thread
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I think I see what you’re talking about although it seems like there are some mixed opinions/ no solid answers on it. From what I see they could improve range via reducing rolling friction when going straight only, but that would only be true if the trucks are straight. Not sure if that end is helping me but the physics behind it is solid when used with normal trucks.
Alternatively, I’d definitely get more range by swapping the wheels since then there would be a gap between the outside of the wheels and the road. It does look like I’d still have less grip while turning though which seems like a bad idea. Guess I’ll need to go out and test if that is true or not since my test on carpet is inconclusive.
I do rotate my wheels — but so far the coning has only helped get more traction it seems like… I don’t know. I’m certainly not changing the wheels, despite having new sets. I have two skates with bad coning and others with slight coning. I really like how these ride.
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