Hopefully people know to only do this with an insulated battery. Or at the very least video record the ordeal to show why they shouldn’t be diying esk8 
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The dual lock does a pretty good job of keeping the battery in place. Just keep in mind the dual lock is stuck on the outside of the battery which (hopefully) is shrink wrap, meaning the shrink wrap is ultimately supporting the weight of a hanging battery, so a little foam between the battery and enclosure helps with weight distribution and vibration/rubbing.
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I also have commitment problems.
I’ve been lining the inside of the enclosure with adhesive eva foam and then gluing shit to that. And then also still foam packing.
I learned recently that the foam packing needs to be carefully considered tho… some parts get hot
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Anyone got a good source for 10mm speed rings?
Memory foam is open cell, I think. I would definitely use a closed cell foam for that.
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I use these in 0.5mm thickness
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Yeah that’s just my bad phrasing, I meant “can’t find any suggestions. But from my memory, people often put foam padding”. Not memory foam, my battery does not need a luxury blanket
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Thanks homie 
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Do any Caliber II baseplates work with the Boardnamics hangars? I was considering buying some new baseplates but US-Canada shipping is a pain in the ass.
Was thinking about making a buying thread but I’m not sure what’s compatible before I do. Any advice would be helpful.
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Yes. 
Sick. Any recommendations apart from the BN stuff themselves?
I don’t understand the question. Regarding other hangers, or baseplates? I’m confused. 
Yes, basically all of them. I’m not personally aware of any that don’t.
Randal and Paris and PNL and Hammock baseplates also work.
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Baseplates. I (will) have hangars. Oops from me on the clarification 
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Check out Randal baseplates, they have adjustable versions that work with BN hangars and you might find them at a Canadian state shop. You might have to buy the whole trucks though as most shops don’t selll baseplates on their own.
Buy used
Do NOT use the 1# threads, they snap in half and rip threads easly.
2# stainless version work the best.
It’s in latvian, translated:
1.Lock a screw with a nut to the insert (hold insert with pliers and turn nut in opposite direction)
2. Add little bit of epoxy on the thread
3. Put insertinside pre-driller hole that is drilled in the lenght of the insert.
4. Keep it as straight as possible and using the lowest speed slowly screw insert in.
5. Once in just switch drill to reverse and with sharp kick unscrew the screw from the insert.
Not mentioned in video, but is a must. Make sure you chamfer the edge of the hole with chamfer tool in order to avoid bulging on sides you see in video.
Other small tips: If you have some spare old deck or thick peace of plywood, practice insert insertion there first as well as experiment with hole diameters. Different inserts have different tolerances. You can also test the effectiveness of the insert on your practice peace by trying to pull insert out with a little contraption made from larger nut and a bolt. An example of test peace:
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I second this
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For wooden decks, ive used the type that are hammered in from the top. Much simpler and less likely to fail.
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I assume you meant these ones.
They are good but in practice with curved decks they never stay flush unless you chip away some wood from surface for each inser. Also makes for less of a waterproof design with hole going through entirety of deck. They are good, but regular propper stainless inserts do the job just fine if you take propper steps with chamfering, drilling, adding epoxy etc.
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