I wasn’t sure where to ask maybe it’s been discussed before, but is there something I can do to get the esk8 to hit the brakes when I don’t have the presence of mind to pull back the throttle while falling? So far it’s almost ended up in a canal or completely lost under a gap I couldn’t fit into, could go under a car and has been severely cut and bashed under a gate.
Maybe along the lines of the remote disconnect failsafe setting and a little tether between my foot and the rx wire?
Deadman tether.
Yeah, i thought about this, if i were to do, id attach an mbs leash to loopkey, no real extra work, strap the leash to your ankle, if you ever come off the board i assume the leash would stay with you
Yes but you can also wire a Deadman switch to ADC pins and tell the VESC to apply brakes when it’s pulled.
Loopkey is just gonna turn off the board and let it roll into traffic/ocean
Was planning with 3ds drives so freeroll didnt really factor into my equation 
The problem with anything like this is the potential for the failsafe function to occur when you don’t want/need it to.
Unexpected brakes at full speed isnt gonna end well.
I was definitely thinking about that, but at least it takes only a couple amps to stop an esk8.
I’ve got torque6 and unity ESCs that I’m setting up, wondering about battery amp ratings. I’ve only been able to find phase amp ratings on google and the forum, and I usually don’t go higher than 50% of those ratings for setting my battery amps as a rule of thumb. I’m wondering if anyone has experience with how high these ESCs can go before overheating?
I don’t have any specific insight but choose 75% as my baseline rule of thumb. We probably came up with the percentages for he same way look at it sideways, close left eye, slight grunting noise, write motor settings
Oh I actually toss a bunch of chicken bones down a staircase and see whether it spells out a number, but I can see how that works too. Trust the process 
Focbox is 80a battery max a side or 160 total btw. In the unity software you just put it in total for both iirc. Been a minute. Neither the battery or motor amps can exceed 80 a side or 160 total. Worded poorly on the site and everywhere it seems. I set up an older lonestar at 80 motor amps and 60a battery at the owners request and it seems to be holding up pretty well. I think it was 10a more than the original settings I found it at
Is it possible to use 2 of the same battery together, say u have a 12s2p and found another one, same brand, but only 260wh/6ah instead of 362wh/8.2ah, still 12s2p. Could I somehow use them in parallel/series? Don’t really know what either of those terms mean 
Parallel means both positives are grouped together (connected) and the two negatives are as well. This results in adding the two capacities and current limits together.
Series means connecting the negative of one battery to the positive of the other and then the leftover negative and positive are the combination of both battery’s voltage, at the capacity of the smallest one.
In general, you can connect identical batteries of in parallel without issue, as long as they are set to the exact same voltage before connection. Connecting them in series can work, but you need to know what you’re doing to avoid ground faults.
In your case, it sounds likely that the packs are made of different cell types, where one stores more energy, and one delivers more power. Connecting them in parallel can overwork the low-discharge pack if your not careful. Connecting them in series can over-charge or over-discharge the low-energy pack very easily, which is a major fire risk. I’d avoid it with your battery packs.
I would use them if that were all I had, it’s likely you’ll take larger risks simply by riding eskate. This is only my opinion though…
Yes, one might have a higher series resistance than the other pack, but, what current is your charger, and how powerful is the skateboard? If we’re talking about 300wh batteries, my guess is it’s not a very powerful board so the difference between batteries isn’t likely to be a problem.
If you could run the board off either battery on its own, and charge the batteries off your charger on their own, and they both have their own BMS for charging, then I don’t see this as any extra risk to use them together compared to just using one battery. I know there is one phenomenon I’m not considering here, but unless you’re draining the battery quite fast then I expect the use casr would be less damaging to the battery than fully cycling just the one of them more often.
But, if you were to connect them in parallel at a different state of charge each, then you could have uncontrolled current between the two packs until they reach equilibrium. Such could be above maximum allowed values as only the internal resistance or BMS, if applicable, can stop this. So, don’t do that.
I know using two batteries together isn’t common, but tbat doesn’t mean it can’t be done. Take precautions, be aware of what you’re doing, and be careful of road works when on small wheels.
It’s not ideal for a few reasons but definitely doable. Be careful of charging and balancing and connecting them in parallel. If you have quite a high voltage controller like a D100 another option is making 21S2P.
Slightly away from the question but you could even use massively different amp hour batteries in parallel with no serious issue, but for example if you have one that’s like 5Ah 15A cells and the other 4Ah 50A cells they will be charging and discharging each other when the load decreases which will wear the cells more. So more useful for charging LiPos in parallel less for use discharging.
I’m building my first 12s3p battery in a 6x6 set up with p42a 21700s
Building it with no bms and will be charging with a icharger x12 w/ a 12s balancing plug (I’m not sure on how to connect the leads yet on this)
How does this set up look? I will double up the strips on the right side connection and the + - side
Thanks for any help or advise!
repost because of a design change
Fwiw that value shows up as 0 for firmwares before this was a thing. I think 5.02 and older.
Don’t double up the strips, just get bigger nickel. Doubled strips works but is hard to get right. Easy to not get the second layer to weld right and have the whole mess come off with vibration
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08TW7TC48?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
If you get 30mm wide strips in .2 it’s easy to make it way overkill for amperage but also easier to execute.
With cell holders i think it’s also important to glue the cells to the holders to keep them from being able to shift with vibration. Small differences in tolerances will focus the movement at the weld and at the nickel which can eventually cause work hardenin g and crack the nickel.
The design and current path looks good but if you use the full 30mm width for the outputs and the long section here:
It should have more than enough meat to carry the current but often people will use two separate tabs on this section:
Then connect them with braid or parallel silicone insulated wires to make sure it isn’t a bottleneck for current
Parallel means you’re connecting the two packs to gain a higher capacity at the same voltage.
Series means that you’re connecting the two packs to increase voltage.
Connecting random packs in series is considered a big no-no for many reasons and it’s generally something that we will all just tell you not to do.
Connecting packs in parallel is a much different story and it can definitely be done successfully but it should definitely not be treated as a set and forget type of thing, there are caveats.
This thread is a great place to gain some insight.
