Deeper explanation on how to work with kv and voltage for you and any people following along.
There are 2 types of losses in motors, copper losses and iron losses. Copper losses come from the motor generating torque with amps, and the resistance in the windings causing voltage drop and heat.
Iron losses can be thought of as the power it takes just to spin the motor and keep it at speed. How much power the motor takes when it’s not connected to anything just freespinning.
Motor kv is rpm per volt, and it is changed by having more thinner or fewer thicker coils of wire inside the stator. Low kv for the voltage makes a lot of torque and low rpm, high kv for the voltage makes lots of rpm low torque, same power overall pretty much. Higher kv motors have much thicker wire so can carry more current with less copper losses but with the higher rpm they take more power just to keep themselves at speed.
So high rpm is optimal for high power, low rpm is optimal for low power
In general I would trust those welds.
They look to have OK penetration, maybe ever so slightly cold, which is a tough call given the thinness of the metal and/or not burning through.
If you have fine amperage adjustment on your welder, you might test bumping amps up a smidge.
One technique to avoid burn through, is focus most of the heat on the larger/thicker of the two pieces(in this case, the square tube) and bring the weld pool to the thinner piece till you get penetration/fusion, then draw away, repeat.
Can someone identify this pulley bolt pattern? It fits my superstars but im looking to mount to the 6 bolt pattern, outter most. I was told it was for tb/evolve hubs. I am wondering what hub and where to find. Is it the surge hub? What hubs does tb have? My superstars are pretty beat up and cause the pulley to wobble.
I checked… it looks like evolve hubs have a 3.03 diameter 5 bolt (76.96mm) pattern, while superstars have a 71.8 mm 5 bolt pattern according to my measure… so my options are limited to superstars or hypa hubs i suppose. Trying to avoid the trampa route. I do see mbs nylon pulleys for 15$ so I could invest in those.
The fivestars are great! They take common tires all the way from 5-9" diameter and are light but sturdy. That’s what I use. You can dye them colors too if you get the white ones.
I have some older EL2 Hoyt motor mounts that I want to keep using, and I could just get some other caliber 2s, which are probably good enough. I just don’t want the 50 degree angle in the rear. 15 degree dewedging seems weird, but I guess I could do that. If I could find the 44 degree caliber 2s for the right price, I could put like 6 degree dewedges under them and have a pretty stable setup… Any other truck options that have the same shape as caliber 2 that I could use?
Having issues after swapping from a voyager that tried to kill me twice to a vx4 pro, hoping to take out tmo with the mother for mothers day, so if someone could help me get working would love you long time
Switched rx&tx, got battery reading from board, uart&ppm, current, also tried current bidirectional just cant get any motion in the ocean pls help
No throttle, got batt readings, puck on ppm also not giving throttle
Are you using it in uart mode or ppm? If uart then you need to set the remote to uart and the app to use mode in vesc tool to uart. If using ppm or ppm and uart you need to run a calibration in vesc tool and set the vesc app mode to ppm
Remote min mid max values are all the same from factory, so i wasnt getting throttle. Fixed now
And there is vesc setup for ppm?
What might that be for when i need my puck setup?
You’d be up around 6a per cell, which will likely heat up those cells considerably… in a pack situation i never really like going higher than about 4a per cell with p42a
I got 43 minutes and 49 seconds, so should be right. That’s a pretty brisk charge, if possible charging slower for the first and last approx 0.2v would be healthy.
