Anyone know the Trampa wheel hub mounting pattern?
71.2mm bolt circle
2 Likes
Thank you! I’ve got some stuff in the works and would hate to need to make duplicates for no good reason so I’m adding any mounting patterns I can find.
71.2mm Trampa
80.3mm MBS
1 Like
Does anybody have advice on how to cut a male xt30 for charging off the battery and solder a new one on? How would that work when the battery is an open power source? Wouldn’t something happen with all that electricity when I bridge it? Do I drain it or something?
Desolder or cut one wire at a time.
1 Like
And how about soldering it again?
The safest way is to do something where you can solder the connector while it’s not live, but that requires desoldering and resoldering the wires from the battery or splicing things. I usually just solder one, heat shrink it, then solder the other. As long as you don’t burn through the heatshrink, that should be fine, but technically, there is a risk there. You seem accident-prone, so I kind of don’t want to recommend doing that.
4 Likes
So just solder one side, heat shrink/tape it, then do the other? Is there not much of a risk doing that?
That depends on how careful you are, how good at soldering you are, and what you consider much of a risk. Like I said, I don’t really feel comfortable telling you to do that. I don’t really like doing it myself, but I do sometimes. Honestly, you should probably just solder the connector onto separate wires and then splice the wires with the ones from the battery. I don’t like having splices in my wires, but that will allow you to keep the live wires far from anything while soldering them.
1 Like
Cut one lead at a time, never both. Your tools can complete the circuit if you cut both at the same time.
Cover the uncut side with electrical tape, a ziploc bag, whatever non conductive thing you can use to keep it separated from the cut side.
Put heat shrink on the cut side before soldering. Common mistake to forget the heat shrink and have to resolder it. Happens to everyone. Solder it into the new connector. Pro tip, use a spare connector plugged into the new one you’re soldering to keep the pins straight. If they get too hot, they want to move. Fill the connector terminal with solder so it’s ready to receive the new wire. Solder the cut wire lead to get it “wet” and ready to mate. Keep the soldering iron on the new connector so the solder is liquid, then join the cut wire to the solder pool. The wire will get hot so use pliers if needed. Hold it steady in liquid hot solder pool, remove soldering iron, keep mated until it solidifies. Cover up all exposed metal with heat shrink. Then repeat with the other side.
4 Likes
I did just about exactly that, put heat shrink on both sides, and then soldered one side, taped it up, and heat shrink, and then The other side, making sure they no wires could possibly be touching.
Thanks for the advice guys.
6 Likes
What kind of tape are you using?
Please don’t say ‘electrical’ tape.
2 Likes
Tesa
3 Likes
Hey, I love my electrical tape… but tessa is better here
5 Likes
Would anyone be able to cnc or however make a piece of aluminum spacer that goes in between my motor and motor mount? Curious how much it’d be for a pair. Thickness about 3mm or 3.5mm preferably.
3 Likes
why do you need a spacer?
“send cut send” might be an easy option.
2 Likes
Yeah, that’s pretty easy. Shoot me a DM
3 Likes
So i don’t need to cut motor shaft for gd
2 Likes