I trust them as much as i trust the alterbags one
Highly recommend this vid
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Like I said, its an ownboards battery which is a chinese brand, I don’t know how reputable it is… I have not let it drain below 30% so far.
At the time i had a bit of ease of mind knowing that we would have a chance in case if there was a fire. Ive seen those videos that you posted.
I used this bag that had better stitching and thankfully never needed to test it when i owned the scooter.
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Well at least there’s some recourse in that they’re an established company. Sounds like you shouldn’t be too worried, just practice good battery care habits and you’ll be fine most likely.
And to add onto what @Pecos said, you should also never charge or discharge a battery below -5 degrees.
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Hey there, not sure if I’m posting in the right place.
I have a wowgo 3 which I did 3700Kms on. One of the hub motors just died and the company said they couldn’t give me a replacement part. Do you know of any other options I have for a compatible part? It’s 90mm and 250watts I think.
Please help as I don’t want to buy a whole new skateboard, this one has been good to me.
Thanks in advance
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Another thing to consider, if your battery is from an Ownboard then it likely discharges through a BMS. You’re using 63100 motors and a high current esc. You’re on the lighter side which helps, but I doubt they built that battery to run a mountain board. If your board pulls more current than the BMS limit it will cut power to your esc and leave you without control of the board. I would be more concerned with having limits set right in VESC tool so this doesn’t happen.
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I dont have any good answers for you, you can try looking around on alliexpress for hub motors that basically match the ones you have. a lot of times the motors that don’t pass qc will get put up there for cheap and you can get lucky but don’t expect any warranty.
there are also some kits that will have hubs, trucks and an esc that you could pop on your wowgo, ive had very mixed results with these and the lack of reputable manufactures in this space makes it a bit of a gamble. of the 6 kits ive gotten i have had 4 early failures - part of this may be that i was pushing them too hard and not treating them nice so don’t take that as a good metric.
quality or boutique vendor hub motors just aren’t a thing, every vendor that has tried has closed shop or just stopped competing in that market. there are just too many cheap low quality hubs coming out of china and honestly i think if qc was better id be happy with that. i really enjoy hub boards.
seems to me that you could try to convert to a small motor with belt drive and get a longer lasting product that can be maintained a little easier though the trade offs are there with belt drives.
have you looked around for a used or bad battery wowgo 3 you could cannibalize on the cheap? have you looked at a similar product from tynee or similar that you could retrofit onto the board and battery you have?
@SternWake have some better advice? You are more uptodate on hubs i think
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noting that your separate post also got a good answer from @SternWake
and crosslinking it here.
either place was probalby ok.
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Anyone know what the bearing size number is for mountainboard bearings? 10mm axles, 28mm bearing seat.
Searching on Amazon I only really see 6001 and 6000 pop up which both seem to be the wrong size.
I also see 16100 which also looks wrong but this is my first mountainboard so maybe I’m just lost.
Pretty confident this is correct, I used 16100 2RS for my hubba hubs and Savage DKP,
They measure 10mm ID 28mm OD and 8mm wide.
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Heck yeah I knew I was wrong about something here, or rather right but I didn’t know it lol.
Thanks a dozen. I can finally pull those 22mm bearings and adapters out.
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Thanks for the reply!! I’ll try and see what I can find
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JST Crimping kit and a pinout diagram.
I believe those are JST-PH2
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I think the pin is toast, could I use a matching pin with the same number of holes?
(Not PH2.0 but still JST connectors)
The little metal parts are the pins, the white part they go into is the housing.
It looks like both pins have separated from the wires they were connected to. You’ll need to crimp new pins onto the wires but you can reuse the housing if you can get the separated pins out.
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Soldering wouldn’t work then? 
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Stick them back in with superglue
this is a joke
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they both look broke off. needs to recrimp. engineer PA-O9 time. 
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Ya, probably not gonna cut it.
This kit should work for you. Test on some scrap wire - crimping is all about feel and takes a couple tries to get the feel but it’s not hard.
It could also be that the wire isn’t flexible enough (few strands) and in stripping the wire they nicked the copper and that weak point will break - get a good pair of strippers to take the insulation off without damaging the wire or carefully score the insulation without cutting all the way through to the wire and break the insulation off.
If you have a spare 4pin jst connector made up already that fits, there is no reason you can’t just solder it directly to the switch or the wires from the switch. Just look up a telephone splice - the wires need to splice by wrapping them around each other so then solder them - solder isn’t the strength - twisting the ends gives them strength. Then heat shrink the joint long enough that it supports the wire and doesn’t let the joint flex at the end of the solder - it will break if it does after a while
Nbd - easy fix
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