I found HFI and that works for now, now I just need to figure out belt tensioning
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I haven’t felt that smoothness starting yet, it feels amazing 
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I’m new here and this is my first electric skateboard. So hopefully I’m posting in the right place. Long story short:
-bought yoface v3
-ESC fried after 2 mi (roads were wet, no rain, board carried over puddles, but my bad)
-Replaced esc with makerx dv4s vesc
-soldered bullet connectors on motors and ran motor detection, motors read different resistances (177 and 124)
-swapped motors, resistance values followed the motors confirming no issue with vesc
-cut bullet connectors off and redid them, resistance values remained 177 and 124 (motors were labeled prior to this) confirming the issue wasn’t my poor soldering skills
-opened motors, no obvious issues found, will probably have to learn to re-wind these someday, looking to move on and replace motors in the meantime.
TLDR;
Can anybody recommend a decent replacement hub motor (preferably on the smaller side-83mm).
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Absolutely the right place, welcome! Ive been getting further and further from hubs because they are so hard to source, a compact belt drive and some 6355 motors will let you use thane wheels and get a similar look but there doesn’t seem to be any “good” or high end boutique type hub manufacturers currently. No opportunity to buy once,cry once.
I feel like the meepo v3 hubs were pretty good for many but not quite up to the task for me. 90 and 100mm but I always had the 100mm. In 2wd i always burned them up after a what always seemed fewer miles than i should have, but i was always doing super long rides… 30ish plus miles. As 4wd the load was split up enough that im still rocking a setup. Reworking that board this winter but it’s been retired to a loaner.
The loaded unlimited hubs i have are great but discontinued and expensive. Driving them is a little off as they have no sensors and are a 24pole motor and vesc doesn’t do a perfect job. Still like what they do and they seem to take a beating pretty well. The proprietary esc for them is getting more rare too. Not a great option unless you fall on someone’s stash they sell ya.
I feel like tynee has some good value products, they are cheap but the company seems responsive and some of their stuff seems to be well put together for the price. Nothing amazing but might be worth looking at
Hubs in my opinion are great for ride feel and push like a skate - none of the other drive systems seem to get that skate feel and sound. They suffer from heat problems - all of them have poor heat transfer. Also the manufacturing has poor qc so lots of duds. It’s frustrating because some just run forever then the same make model will just die repeatedly until the warranty runs out and you never got a good working part. Also repair ability is lacking to say the least, it’s not often you can replace bearings or even trucks if the interface is proprietary one or two generations later. Replacing sleeves is a huge pain and qc sucks.
Maybe someone can pop up with some more current info, i love the idea of hubs but the market isn’t diy or repair friendly imho
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So your hub motors have different resistance according to Vesc, what are the symptoms when on bench and when riding?
My attempts with vescing hub motors failed.
Was getting wildly fluctuating resistance and induction on back to back manual detections. Neither motor read anywhere lose to the other, Iirc. They sounded horrible, popping and crackling, especiLly at more than half throttle, and I gave up.
I Installed a reviled 2018 era Lingyi ESC, , then the motors were again nearly silent, and went ~1500 miles more on them before I submerged them.
I’ve got some older smaller hub motors I’m gonna try to get going to replace the submerged ones, and have something to ride again, relatively soon.
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Yeah, I’ve noticed the very limited selection for hubs. It seems like all the “good” ones are unfortunately impossible to get.
I thought about moving the board to belts, but the enclosure on it doesn’t leave enough space and I’m trying to maintain use of the tail.
I’ll look into the meepo and tynee hubs, tynee seems like they have some decent stuff.
Looks like I’ll be going belted for the next board given what I know now. Should have done more research I guess.
Thanks for the thorough reply!
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There were no symptoms on the bench other than mismatched readings.
I never actually took the board out so I’m not sure if there performance issues while riding. I was under the assumption that the mismatch meant there was something wrong. Is this incorrect?
I also wasn’t sure how to proceed with setup having mismatched motors as I don’t know whether I’m supposed to pick one value and setup both up identically, or if needed use the mismatched values for setup, really new to this. I’m also unsure of which, if either motor is the “good” one (contacted support a couple weeks but they haven’t responded).
Hope your motors work out so you can get riding again!
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Most of your questions are also questions I have.
My first set of 83mm hub motors came on a sub 300$ 7s POS, and felt completely different spinning them by hand, and would achieve different rpm(~125) unloaded, and spin up and down at different rates.
I did try them at 10s on lingyi esc and vesc with slightly different results than the 90mm Puaida hub motors but both sets of hubs worked fine on Lingyi ESCs.
I Dont know hows or whys, and did not get around to trying to vesc them again in the 7 months since.
The lingyi just worked, the motors were quiet and I was able to roll as fast and far as needed, and that was tolerable.
I wanted a functioning backup board before delving back into it, but that never happened.
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Yeah, this is probably going to end up being a backup if I ever get it figured it out. I have a BKB kit coming in a couple days but I’m starting to get the feeling I should have just DIY’d a board from the start given how much money and time I’ve sunk into this. Hopefully a wizard chimes in and can answer some of these questions.
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Hear me out !!
Boardnamics M1 At Helical drive users that have not yet used your drives or have been waiting for a solution.
I have been thinking & curious whether a beefy circlip could handle the lateral load of a helical drivetrain like such. I’d be happy to put myself on the line to test it.
But I would like some input on how to cut a circlip slot? Is there a cheap way to do this? Other than chucking the motor on a lathe and or busting out the dremel and spinning the motor up to max speed while I cut this? Likely so just haven’t done my research.
Lmk what you guys Think
I’m thinking I could use my helical drives that I thought were straight cut when I bought them. If I hash this out.
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Spin up the motor and hit it with the Dremel, have a steady wrist/hand
Mark the cut before you start, it’ll make precision easier to attain
tall order. 
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Is there a list of available motor mounts and what trucks they work with? Can’t seem to find anything of the sort in search.
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I have not seen such a list.
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I’ve got a question. I am not very experienced with batteries and I want to know how much I need to worry about the battery burning my house down, I know I’m being paranoid but I am not experienced in precautions to take. It’s a 12s2p ownboards liion battery (362 wh)
I’m assuming there’s a higher risk as it is a random Chinese brand with unknown quality?
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Do you know the manufacturer? Is it a trusted battery builder?
Has the battery been damaged or overcharged or over-drained (under charged)?
If it’s a well treated battery from a trusted builder you should have nothing to worry about.
Just keep it charged, don’t drain it too low, and use an appropriate storage voltage when storing it.
And don’t do what I did and leave it plugged into a vesc all winter so it drains slowly.
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The biggest risks afaik are during charge and discharge so don’t charge un attended. Most failures are not catastrophic - and it’s much more likely that it will just die and not go nuclear.
It’s not a zero chance so take reasonable precautions like: don’t charge it when you aren’t there or are sleeping, keep it in a place that is more fire safe than not - like a clear area away from flammable items, have a way to easily throw it outside if something goes haywire - a pair of leather gloves like welders use are cheap and easy to keep handy if you’re concerned.
You can make an area more fire safe by adding drywall sheets to an area. I have a clear spot in my heated garage for my bulk battery cells and recycle pile and a big fireproof blanket under everything so i can drag it all outside worst comes to worst, but ive got a lot of cells so higher risk - more precautions
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If you can put the battery in a metal box or away from flamable things and don’t leave it near a heat source when you’re not using it. I’ve had both my batteries built by @Pecos, a very reputable guy in my local community and another very reputable guy who used to build batteries. No issues with them yet.
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With my electric scooter i had a firesak(bag) where i would store the battery during the colder months… That can be an option.
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