Looks like I got 1.6’s.
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Can anyone have a link for a tried and tested motor pulley puller. Preferably on amazon as I’m based in the UK. I need to take the motor pulleys off 6374 motors. Thanks
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This is what I use, I haven’t found a gear puller that has a shaft smaller than 8mm but it can be used to break the pulley/gear loose and then can be disassembled and used as a lever on either side to get the pulley/gear the rest of the way off. Like so (obviously with an assembled motor and a pulley/gear on it)
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Thanks fella for the link and explanation. They sell them on amazon UK as well.
Planning stages.
I know nothing.
OG focBoxes, v1.6, on 10s
Loopkey.
Did these come with on off switches originally?.
Do I need to bridge pins to use loopkey?
Any other considerations I dont yet know enough to ask about, or search terms/threads I should have already explored?
I find the sound of the Xt90 pins ringing, upon pulling the loopkey, disturbingly satisfying.
Don’t get me started on re inserting it.
I wanna replace every switch, everywhere, with a loopkey.
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Hello,
i have a few questions, because im reading, reading, reading and still sth is missing in my knowledge.
I want to build Esk8 for around 500$. I cant use vesc, cuz its gonna be easy, and its my project for college.
Ok lets start the questions:
- Where can i find a list of recommended motors nowadays, i found it on old forum but they are all oos. I’d like to buy it on AliExpress if its possible or from some EU shops.
- Can i program esc in my dedicated way, i want to build my own BLE controller with functions like max speed-20/30 km/h so i need to have control over esc.
- I’ll mostly hit speed of 25/30km/h and my goal is to have range about 10km( 7km is minimum cuz its my daily commute) so what motor/batteries should i choose.
Could you be more specific about what you mean by program, and what ESC you’re referring to?
For example, do you mean “Can I configure max speed on an Exway Flex Pro ESC?” Generally there are some options to configure settings through a mobile app for prebuilt boards. But nowhere near as much flexibility as VESC. If you’re building a remote though, does “program” mean write the C code that runs on the ESC?
Are you avoiding VESC because using VESC would be too easy, or because it would be too easy to use something else?
I personally don’t think 500 is realistic. I’ve gotten close to that price only by waiting around for over a year, buying used or on extreme discounts, and throwing together whatever was available
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Bump, also I asked the seller if there were any search terms I should be looking for and the seller replied with this picture:
I’m even more confused than I was before, I thought I popped a resistor but this looks like a fuse.
Next to the popped component there’s writing on the PCB that says:
“FA2
40A/58V”
I’m way outta my depth here, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Yes, i want to develope it in C with ESP32. From what i understand from my research VESC gives u app that u can set up everything within this app - i can’t do it. Im sorry for asking but do you maybe know answers to my other questions?
No problem with the questions!
Do you mean develop your own ESC? Or just the remote and receiver. What are you studying in college and what is the scale of this project?
Regarding your other questions, I think you’re going to have to find the answers yourself.
As far as I now there isn’t a list of recommended motors. You can look through build threads to see what other people use, or search for specific comparisons (ie look for places that someone asked a specific question like “is Motor A OK for this amount of current, or should I get Motor B instead?”)
You can use the calculator linked at the top of the forum to calculate speed. Pick a motor, battery, and gearing as a starting point from a build thread, put them in the calculator, and increase or reduce the values to get the speed you want. These values tell you what parts you need (like what pulley size, motor kv, battery voltage). Then search aliexpress, flipsky, radium, boardnamics, or prebuilt companies like meepo or exway, and try to see if the parts you need exist and are available for sale. If this is for college, you need to choose the parts yourself anyway if you want to learn anything
On the board with the damaged part, is it in a socket (can you pull it out by hand) or is it soldered to the board?
If you can, can you measure the physical size with a callipers or even a ruler? I believe it should be this size below, referred to as Regular automotive size or 19mm
It is a fuse, annoying details for the resistor naming below
Resistors oppose the flow of current, and turn some of the current into heat. If they get very very hot, they just melt or explode or otherwise stop conducting. So you can use a resistor (or almost anything that passes current like a wire or PCB trace) as a fuse if you size it so it melts at your preferred current level. This is in fact what a fuse is, a small piece of metal of the right physical size that it melts at the specified current, usually contained in plastic or glass to catch the metal when it blows. Usually you want the fuse to have as small a resistance as possible so it doesn’t waste energy in normal operation
Sometimes people use special resistors with a higher resistance value as fuses, this is a fuseable resistor. So because of all these areas where there’s overlap and the terms are similar, occasionally people refer to fuses on a board as “Resistor number 4” instead of “Fuse number 1”. It’s bad practice, and on their own board it’s marked F
If it’s socketed, it’s easy to replace. Your search terms should be 58V 40A fuse. 58V or any higher voltage rating like 63, 65, 70, 80, etc is fine. This just tells you it’s rated to extinguish voltage up to that level, so when the fuse blows the voltage won’t just arc across the gap. Higher voltage ones tend to be bigger and more expensive. 40A is the current rating you should use though, not higher or lower. If you buy a higher current rating it likely won’t break the current, and if you go lower it will blow too easily.
I would recommend using digikey/farnell/radionics/mouser or a local equivalent, a reputable electronics supplier. Pick whichever of the big ones has the cheapest handling and shipping for you, for me in Ireland it’s radionics. Make sure to filter the fuses with whatever size you have, like I said I believe it’s 19mm which is one of the most common
If it’s soldered it’ll be more of a pain to replace
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So I’ve wanted to build my own electric skateboard since the e-scooters that litter the streets these days came into being. While i could just buy one that i know will work there’s no satisfaction in that. So I go about getting the information from sites specs of motors, battery sizes, vesc or esc and so on. But I always come up against a wall, being that the numbers don’t make sense (I guess they do but i will explain) I understand that watts divided by volts is amps, that makes sense but then i will look at a pre built board for an example of everything in action and the amperage of the board should have a 5,000mAh battery drained in minuets but is advertised as having 16 miles of range. What am i missing?
mah is the battery capacity.
amps is the instantaneous draw on the battery
1 amp draw for one hour consumes 1000mah or 1 amp hour
The actual draw on the battery is highly variable depending on motors,wheels, terrain, speed and surface smoothness and rider style.
Claimed ranges seem to be with a 165 lb rider going ~65% of max speed on level ground.
Actual range is usually far less
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Hello I am currently working on my first build and I have a question about the bms. I got ahead of myself and ordered one with the amp rating as the driving factor. I’m starting to wonder how
anyone can afford to this but basically I got the smart active balance bms 100 amp for 8-17s I am making a 12s3p or 4 p battery pack I have made a couple of the diy kits from Amazon. Have. A spot welder etc. I’m not really sure how the battery is supposed to be set up for a skateboard but I’m sure there are videos. I got the flipsky dual mini fsesc6.7 pro 140 amp with the anti spark and I have 2 belt drive motors i bought on temu set up to a mountain board type wheel. I am mounting them on a 42 inch mountain board I believe that is the size. I am wondering for compartment for the battery does anyone know of download files for 3d printer for. Nice likable compartment I also got sheet metal and fiberglass if ther others were not a good idea but I can weld it or glass it but I rather print it bc it’s way cooler. Anyways I’m about 15k in on this build with the printer and welder so any help would be awesome haha and is there a way to identify the power of my motor without any labels on it maybe testing resistance
DIY building is very expensive, but not 15k expensive
What welder and printer did you get, and did you buy them just for this? You really shouldn’t buy equipment before you know more details, you said you don’t know how an estate battery is set up
Resistance won’t tell you the power rating, it’s not completely useless but it doesn’t tell you much by itself. Could you link or provide pictures for any of the things you’re talking about? It would help if you were more specific about what you want, particularly what kind of enclosure. 3D printed enclosures exist, but have a lot of caveats attached
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so what you are saying is that my planed build of over 200 amps between 4 motors and a 33.6Ah battery may still be viable because i shouldn’t run it full throttle?
I am a very heavy person, I was really in shape but mental health taking a sharp decline had me gain a lot of weight which is why I have decided on 4 mid watt motors, more torque.
I could also go for high watt motors but I doubt I would see much of an improvement being that they are the same 170kv rating and nearly double the amps to over 400.
current weight 160kg as of this morning will be losing it over time so I wont need as much torque when I’m back at 130kg lean
total on paper price for my build because batteries are not cheap $2,150 $1000 is that huge battery 12s8p from mboards everything else will be from flipsky but if you have any suggestions for other sites that may be better I would love to hear it. thanks for your time.
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If you want more technical detail, this thread has some good stuff but basically:
The motor current is not the same as battery current. You do need motor current for torque. But you only need high battery current when you’re using high torque at high speed. IMO yes that battery will be plenty capable, they’re good cells and lots of em. What kind of speed do you want to aim for?
I’m 110kg, but because I ride gently I get better range than people much lighter than me who ride more normally
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