I have a brand new 10s6p battery from SBS that I had him build for me.
On the motors… no idea. Best I can tell is they are some sort of chinese ebike motors? All I know is that they are 1000w motors, and one is on the front right and one on the rear left. You can see pics in the other thread. All VESC settings are basically defaults. I haven’t done anything but setup my hoyt puck and do some light testing in the driveway / yard.
VESC defaults change based on a wide variety of things, having those settings still very much gives useful information in trying to help you.
This is an inherent quality of regenerative breaking, your best bet here would likely be some form of simple mechanical brake.
I’d also recommend this.
@G8rfn2 Many of us use smart reverse to do this.
As @Egtscs mentioned, we’d need some more info on your VESC parameters to help with the torque issues.
Mechanical brake on an esk8? Travesty!
I mean, mbs does sell brake kits 
maybe you could do a frontflip if you pull it hard enough going full bore 
you have 2 hands its like driving with both feet in an automatic, one to stop one to go
German law compliant vehicle there
Do people run ESCs in sealed cases with no heat sinks? Any problems with overheating? Any problem with the receiver also in the sealed case?
Planning on mounting in small pelicase and want max weatherproofing and minimum build hassle
Can someone please help me restore my settings on my Lacroix Jaws 2.0 on the Vesc tool app I have completely put them out, I just need instructions on how to get it back to standard. Thank you in advance
It really depends on too much to guarantee. Afaik you can try it without consequences - if you’re riding style and the specs cause it to thermal throttle you take it back apart and cut in a heat sink or add thermal mass. One of the fuck around and find out situations but i think pretty low stakes. Do you have a way to monitor it during a ride? Bluetooth modules are pretty cheap again now that the chip shortage has mostly resolved
A break kit with a little stomp lever would be kinda cool, not to use when riding but just to lock the board at a stop on a hill or something. Maybe turn on smart reverse - that’s what I use and I skate Seattle hills
Both of these can be improved by changing the gearing. Increasing the ratio (smaller motor gear/pulley, larger wheel gear/pulley) will both improve starts and torque, and reduce the top speed.
If the gear ratio can’t be increased, replacing the motors with lower KV ones will help as well.
I did for a lonnnnng time but was going faster and riding further so I was heating up the esc later on.
What’s your board like and how fast/long do you ride?
6384s 170kv probably at 80-90 amps, 5.5:1 gear ratio, 8 inch wheels, and weigh about 110kg padded. Not riding crazy hard/fast by this forum’s standards, but it gets hot here in the Aussie summer, and I like long rides
I’m leaning towards do it once and do it properly with the heatsink
Appreciate the advice - cheers
Right off the bat doesn’t look like I have something set correctly as I don’t see any of those options?
Got it. Also, it appears (to my eyes, at least) that the motors dont spin at the same speed. The rear one seems to spin at ~2-3x more than the front. At least when the board is flipped over and there is no resistance.
Trying to get it back to life with a dv4s, and custom built battery. It’s been sitting in a storage unit for 7+ years.
My recommendations would be to start with the following settings:
Motor current max: 50a
Motor current max brake: -50a
Slow ABS current limit: true
Battery current max: 50a
Battery current max Regen: -20a
These settings will in my opinion, be less likely to fry components but will likely make your torque issue worse, or at least won’t improve it. To fix your torque issue as well as your top speed issue I’d recommend doing what @MysticalDork said:
In the bottom left corner you’ll see the “CAN devices” section, this shows the controllers (each motor needs an individual controller which are both connected to work together and share power)
Shown in green is the side you’re currently working on, the “local” side (basically meaning whichever is connected to a computer)
Shown in yellow is the other side of the ESC connected over CAN, keep in mind that anything done to 1 side of the ESC must be repeated on the other side.
Are you familiar with how to write parameters to each ESC once you’ve changed settings?
I know how to write the motor config, if that’s what you mean… yes.
On the gearing though, I’m not sure how to accomplish that as it would require pretty heavy modification to the way the board itself is setup / built. I will snap some pictures of those and try to post.
On Speed, I seem to be successful lowering the “MaxERPM” value. But, nothing else I can try electronically with torque?
