I can’t take risks since these are the only batteries I got lmao, I’ll do some research and see which one of those triggers it
Fair enough. If it were me, I’d set one of those to slightly higher than the voltage your battery is in its current state and then see if it will charge
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So set one to for example 3800 and another 3710
Measure the battery voltage.
If the battery voltage is 40V, then each individual cell will be somewhere around 4v or 4000mV.
Set the undervoltage one to 4100mv, leave the minimum one at 3000mV and see if it will let you charge
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I would assume that the ‘undervoltage’ setting will alert you that the battery is low, and the ‘minimum’ setting would be the one that stops you from charging. But thats just an assumption.
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Yea I’ll do some research to make sure before changing the settings around just to make sure cuz it’ll be a costly mistake if I put the wrong value in the wrong spot
measure the voltage of your charger
Nvm I got it, one of the connectors weren’t fully in
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C- and B- are separate, I assume you mean there’s no separate C- and P-. Just connect the battery negative to B-, charge port to C-, and the negative that goes to the ESCs also goes to B-.
For non-bypassed operation, you would connect the ESCs to C-.
As for the switch question, I don’t know - I haven’t used that specific BMS before. I’d say leave them alone until either you can get an answer from the seller, or you can do some testing of your own.
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I have an Eovan GTS Carbon Super, I think the electric components are great, skate parts needed some replacing but most of all, the vesc settings are set up to be a bit ridiculous, does anybody have experience adjusting vesc settings on the carbon super? I can’t seem to find the right plug.
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What ESC does it use?
I thought those eovan boards used that weird vesc that was permanently bound to their specific remote
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Has anyone wedged/de-wedged their haero to hit max speeds?
Ive got my haero on matrix 2s with orange front, red rear, ~185lb rider. Struggling to get past ~32mph. It gets pretty dicey and definitely does not feel comfortable unless the road is perfect.
Thinking about dewedging the rear 5 deg, wedging the front 5 deg.
I could also, ya know, #gitgood and be a better rider. Working on that
Alright I’m just gonna say it, Haero feels squirrely to me at speed. Maybe if you skin it and stiffen it up a bit or have a hard flex version and aren’t heavy it’s fine but I swear, I have a much harder time getting to 30mph on both my own unskinned medium flex bro and the 16s one I rode the other day than any flat decks or my asymmetrical and stiff mbs pro 97.
Here’s a crazy thought I also believe. Looser bushings help me hit speed. I don’t like giving this advice as it seems generally counterintuitive but every time I tighten my bushings too much, it feels weird and snappy like it’s a spring trying to return to center.
I have not wedged the bro so I will now step down from my podium.
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Never rode the Haero Bro, but I also notice softer bushings help me at higher speeds. Sounds counter-intuitive, but I have also noticed.
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why do gear drives require the feature of adjustable backlash? is this simply to accommodate different pairings of gears in the same housing? Why couldn’t the C to C distance of the gears simply be machined to the right distance and then not adjusted?
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Exactly. If someone wants to change ratio, they may need to micro adjust backlash.
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ahh i see. I guess even if the total number of teeth between the two gears is the same (meaning base C to C distance is the same), different pairings of gears want slightly different offsets for optimal backlash so there’s not really any getting around adjustability if you want gears to be swappable
Hmm… hot take 
maybe i should yellow blocks in the front and see what happens. Not a bad idea. I’ve got the stiff haero, but I’m also a growing boy.
May also wedge, bc that’s a quick 3D print
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