Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

My bms arrived and I noticed that it comes with leads for a “switch” of some sort? On the website it said “please contact us if needs this function”. Would that mean I can just switch on/off the bms to turn the board on/off? Or should my system still include an anti-spark loop key somewhere?
Also it doesnt say anywhere if it is a button-press or a physical switch that I need to connect to the leads (permanently connected leads or just connect them shortly to switch on/off as in a button)

I got it off of this site 6S 25.2V 7S 24V 8S 29.2V 9S 10S 36V li ion or lifepo4 Battery smart BMS with 20A 30A 40A 50A 60A constant discharge current with RS485 and UART communication function – LLT POWER ELECTRONIC

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Not sure if you’ve undone the motor again but the belt looks like it has some slack left = move motor further away = more clearance at least from the truck.

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hmm yeah that true wouldnt be nice touching the truck, but toward enclosure isn’t possible. But would be an option to mount it back to droptrough because that was okey.

Thx for mentioning, but didnt mount it yet, so its okey (for now) :smiley:

My meepo hurricane battery stopped charging and I think the bms is the problem.

I have a 12s Daly bms on hand and would like to replace the bms that’s currently with the battery.

Any tips on replacing a bms on a battery?

Thanks!

This would make you the first one to open up the hurricane battery. No one has done it yet (not that we are aware of)

IF you end up opening the battery, take lots of pictures.

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I will definitely take a lot of pictures!

It’s my opinion (and probably that of the majority of other builders here) that you should not have your BMS wired in such a way that it can cut power to the board under any circumstances. If the BMS cuts power, you completely lose your brakes, which is super duper dangerous. For this reason alone I would strongly urge you to run your BMS bypassed for discharge, and use an anti-spark/loop key to power the board on/off.

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How do I find total cycle capacity for a 10s, 4500mAh Lipo?

As in, how many cycles it will last for, or what’s the capacity of one cycle?

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Nah it’s the stupid thing the LLT BMS asks you to put in.

That’s it.

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How many cycles it’ll last for, I’m just making sure the numbers I put in are correct


I believe that the total cycle capacity is what you actually expect to use in a full cycle. I usually just put it as 80% of the total capacity…

So 0.8 x 4500 = 3600mAh

Not sure if this is correct, thats just what i do. I think it only matters for the UI to show you your remaining battery capacity

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you should set total cycle capacity to ~80% of the total battery capacity, so ~3600mah. Basically that setting is “how far am I going to discharge the battery?” whereas the other one is “if I drain it dead, what’s the absolute max capacity I can get?”

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Does everything else seem good settings wise?

Ok cool, does everything else look good?

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You have the ‘cell undervoltage’ set to 3710mV but ‘cell minimal voltage’ set to 3000mV.

Not sure which of these settings do it, but I assume if you go below one of them, it won’t let you charge.

I’d be curious to know which one it is.

Easy to test. Run the cell under 3710mV with your current settings and see if it lets you charge

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Okay, bms bypass for discharging noted! But my bms has a shared in/out connection (C- and B-) So I guess I just connect the pack connections to the motor and a separate charge port to the bms C-/B-.
On that note… the loosely hanging leads for the bms switch (that I wont use). Do I just solder them together so its permanently active? Or how does the switch work? (Do I disable the switch function somehow in the app via bluetooth?) I cant test the app at the moment for these settings as I havent built the pack yet because of these questions.

I’ll set them both to 3710, didn’t see that

Then you won’t know which one of those is the one that triggers undervoltage charge protection :sweat_smile: