Yeah I mostly just think it’d be cool to be able to be able to do really long trips up to Vancouver Washington from Portland since I usually have to take the first leg of that journey via transit but I feel like a board capable of that would be really fucking unwieldy, my meepo voyager x with its 36 18650 cells is about 20 pounds and quite unwieldy to my little fucking noodle arms.
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also- should’ve asked earlier but I am somewhat curious about gear drive system but am slightly concerned about the noise, I do think it sounds really cool but I’m not clear on how loud it is and it’s pretty hard to tell from a lot of the vids I’ve seen. Also, what’s the practical advantage of helical geardrive and is it problematic if a geardrive has a gear that’s POM?
It is quieter but also creates a sideways load down the axle that needs accounted for. I loved my helical gears but kept breaking loctite, washers, and even keys when the pinion would get loose from side load over time. Probably didn’t help that I was offroading a ton.
Not a problem, unless it’s the pinion that’s POM. I’ve been running POM gears for years and have only broken 3 gears. 2 times were from crashes, one was me stupidly revving the wheels in the air and slamming down on them while accelerating. POM is quieter but more succeptible to breaking. Metal is metal 
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They must be using sandpaper belts 
The next challenge is to see if I can melt aluminium pulleys 
Which means I have to use the tb110 wheels for now until the new kegel pulleys arrive. I have another set of POM (or they should be POM) pulleys but I don’t want to melt those ones too since they should work fine when it isn’t 106 out.
not sure if you went over this already, but how did you manage to melt the pullies lol? were you running them for a long time after the belt’s teeth had all but disappeared or smth of that nature?
All I know for sure is that it was 106f outside and I had to take a second trip about 90 minutes after I got back from the grocery store. Before leaving the pulleys looked normal and were fine but started acting up during the way back. They might have been partially melted already and I just didn’t see it before leaving since the outside teeth that were visible still looked fine
One motor mount was slightly out of line with the wheel but it wasn’t bad enough to cause any issues. I’ve had the same thing happen in the past where it looked line up on the bench but then when I’m out I’ll look down and notice that it isn’t aligned perfectly and that has never caused any pulley damage or even belt damage.
The board is completely undamaged aside from some of the melted plastic still being stuck in the motor mount holes and some paint getting removed. That and I turned a 15mm belt into a ~11mm belt and the other got shaved down to 13mm. All the teeth are still on the belts
That PCB definitely looks like it has seen better days.
Could anyone please help me with the type of the connector on the left? The right one is JST-PH2.0 PH-4Y for comparison
It goes to this connector. If that helps this is the bluetooth module of the LLT Smart BMS
Witdh of connector(socket in the background from above, I am happy to shoot a better picture if needed)
I tried to measure the space between slots.
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jst zh 2.54
edit: should be XH
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You sure its ZH and not XH? I mean chars are next to each other and seems like
ZH’s pitch is 1.5 J.S.T. Mfg. Co., Ltd. (jst-mfg.com)
while XH is 2.5 according to jst’s product page which practically is equal to 2.54 from your reply J.S.T. Mfg. Co., Ltd. (jst-mfg.com)
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yes, sorry, is xh. i got fat finger
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thanks!
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Umm…yup…that antenna has ceased to be. 
Did it catch on something bouncing around in the enclosure?
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Hey All. Having an issue w my main ride rn. It’s relatively minor but wanted to get some possible solutions.
Issue is that when I start my controllers up using the power button, more-often-than-not I get nothing when I hit the throttle. Roll to start and everything works fine. Puck is indicating it’s connected in both scenarios.
Controllers are TB6s connected over CAN and remote is a puck. TIA.
I’m not sure I had it inside of a 3d printed case I found for it on thingiverse.
Verrry strange. It takes a decent amount of concentrated force to rip a trace off like that. Though soldering for too long/too hot can lift the trace off the pcb and then it’s a lot easier to damage.
Wait…I just noticed this…are all those solder pads lifted off the pcb? That pcb was probably bent somehow.
