Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

No fire, but they were hot AF when I got back and smelled horrible because melting plastic does that. oh an I live in Hell AKA Texas and it currently feels like 106 outside per the weather report

One was skipping a little bit but I thought it was because the motor mount wasn’t perfectly in line with the wheel. Both belts still had good tension when I stopped to check on the way there.

Once it got to the point of me knowing something was fucked up I couldn’t stop to check.

How do I know if they are or aren’t pom?

Where/who did you buy them from?

Pom generally doesn’t melt until it’s like 350F so something doesn’t add up

I bought them used but in new condition on here so I have no idea.

I did order a set of push fit metal pulleys and do have a 38 t set in plastic (also don’t know what the fuck they’re made of) to use while I wait for the new ones. Just need to make sure to not need to go two places in one day I guess

I will say I think they were at least at or above 212f when I got home. Didn’t measure it because I had more pressing matters to deal with. They were hot enough that they could have easily caused a 2nd degree burn if you grabbed it with your bare hand

I need help connecting my bluetooth module please. It’s a first generation maker x bluetooth module, and I can’t get it to work neither on my phone (Metr app) nor in vesc tool. When I try to click “setup Bluetooth module” in vesc tool I get a message saying “The BLE module does not support setup. You can try updating the firmware on it from the SWD programmer page”. I’m new to vesc tool, so I don’t know how I would go about the SWD programmer page :sweat_smile:
I’m running firmware 6.02 on Maker x DV6.
Anyone that can help?

Pom feels shiny and almost wet or greasy when you touch it compared to other plastics. Not much to go off of but yowza those are tar now

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Metr only works with Metr devices.

The Module you have likely is a HM10 Module which lost support in FW 5 and up.

You need an NRF based Module

DIY:

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I mean the melted bits almost look like tar is over them if that helps determine the material at all. Honestly I’m just glad I didn’t stop to check on the way back because them melting and shitting my pants would have been worse.

turned one belt into a 10mm/ 13mm wide belt and then another into a 14mm belt. They started slipping over the motor mount once the pulleys were melted. I honestly have no clue how they even still moved the board at all. When I was back home the brake did nothing at all

No way this aint partly user error lmao

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Aah that clarifies things, thanks! Is using a earlier firmware version an OK solution or will the cons outweigh the pros of that?

Were the belts loose to begin with? Are you running an idler and is the idler still there? Just curious what would cause this. Never seen it before

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one side was slightly out of line with the motor pulley but it was 1mm off at most.

belts weren’t loose and no idler as I switched to the mounts someone sold me for cheap on here. Probably haven’t seen it before because no one else wants to ride in 106 f heat and no one would ride twice in one day in that heat.

I think everything would have been fine if I had not gone out a second time or if I waited until my board fully cooled down before going back out. It didn’t feel warm when I carried it out but it might have still been warm.

It depends on what your plans are or what firmware you exactly want to use (Potential bugs that got fixed later) You also need to check if your Vesc supports old firmware without issues.

@Creavenger for example still runs…3.52 or something on his Mountainboard. I run 5.2.

I think personally i would invest in a new module and use a somewhat newer firmware. Old firmwares are still solid in most cases. Definitely do research on the specific firmware if you found an older one you want to use.

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Ok, thank you very much for the help!

Yeah, that’s about the size of it. Voltage mainly affects top speed, so you can get away with a lower voltage to some degree if you don’t mind giving up some zip.

Yeah, that makes things problematic. You’d basically need a BMS for each battery module, and you would need to ensure that the different modules are at the same voltage before connecting them together, to avoid high equalization currents.

Depending on how easy it is to open up the enclosure, you might consider just carrying a spare battery, and using them one after another instead of at once.

Ok, did some research and it turns out that the bluetooth module I have is NRF based (nrf51), so that leaves me back at square one. Any other suggestions what to do?

I’d need a BMS for each one? I thought I might be able to do something like wire out each balance lead and the +/- to a bus running along a rail on the bottom of the (massive) enclosure along the Omni deck with some pin sockets at several points, with the “modules” being an n series pack that just plugs into the socket. Is that dumb? Am I stupid? (The answer is yes, I’m a software engineer not an electrical).

Like would this work (Apologies for the poorly sketched diagram :woozy_face:):

You could do that, but there are possible drawbacks (other than the added complexity) like possible current sharing between groups under load. If the cells aren’t all perfectly matched, and one cell in one pack is higher voltage than another in a different pack (but in the same p-group), then current would flow from the high cell into the low cell through the balance leads, which are generally not designed to handle those kinds of currents.

You also have to make sure that the packs are all in balance and matched with eachother before connecting them to the “BMS bus” for the same reason.

Oh!! That’s a pain in the fucking ass. Yeah okay this is def a longer term project, then :pensive::saluting_face:

(in other news, meepo warranty is working so I can relax a little bit at least)

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Yep, modular batteries are a whole other can of worms. It can be done, but it’s a pain.

The whole “different sizes for different ranges” thing also makes it even more complicated. Modular batteries for airline travel (so each module is under the 100Wh limit) is easier because you only need it to work with all the modules installed.

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