Especially if you get some form of a VESC6 that supports sHFI or VSS (still to stupid to know the difference) and put the ESC in the enclosure, then it’s only 6 wires out which is really easy to waterproof
For best and easiest results put the charge port and power button on a cover plate in the enclosure, then when you lock the lid down there’s no way to get them wet, although I personally would try to tuck them under the ledge of the lid on the outside
ASS
Sensors
Sensors are so much hassle
That seems like a popular opinion around here, but I’ve never had an issue with sensors… maybe I’ve been lucky. Been running sensored motors for a few thousand miles at least, always just works lol. Although none of my wires have ever been under much stress.
Can the smooth startup provided by sensors be replicated properly when running sensorless? I know you can get some good results with sHFI and stuff, but is it ever as smooth as sensors?
Sensors will always be smoother and quieter than any sensorless setup, I have sensorless builds because the motors didn’t have them or the wires broke or waterproof was gonna be a risk, and I’ve had sensored, definitely prefer the sensors but sometimes you gotta do without
Beyond detection nor I… but it’s only a matter of dang time. I’m gonna superman at some point bc sensors 
When it does happen, I hope I’m able to NGAF and just roll outta it bur HFI is looking better and better these daaays 
…It was my understanding that part of the appeal with this deck:
Is that the enclosure’s built in. Honestly looks like it’d make things a lot simpler, am I misunderstanding something?
No, that’s perfect. I didn’t see that this was the deck you were planning on using, so I figured I’d give the standard recommendation of “make sure you can find an enclosure to fit X deck”.
O real, will definitely keep that in mind idk it’s a pretty expensive deck lol but I think I can make it work? This might be a bit ambitious as a beginner but what’s to stop me from creating a modular battery system? I’d basically need to create each “module” as a pack of x batteries in series and then wire up each additional module in parallel, right?
Also where can I find a good guide on the additional hardware esk8 requires, like the stuff for mounting the motors and fenders etc? I’m looking to build a belt drive.
This is not an easy task to accomplish even for experienced battery builders and is wrought with all kinds of potential danger. I’d stick to one battery for now. If you’ve never built a pack before, building a safe and robust battery will be challenging enough on its own.
It’s generally easier to make each module the full P-number and connect them in series. Less connections needed between all the cells to keep everything in balance.
In either case, it adds an additional layer of challenge and complexity that I probably would not recommend undertaking in your first DIY build.
I highly recommend using class 10.9 or 12.9 alloy steel fasteners, not stainless. Stainless is softer and less strong, which often causes all kinds of pain down the line. Socket cap head/button head screws are the usual choice, so you will need a good quality set of hex/allen wrenches. I recommend Wera, but as long as they’re not the cheap Chinesium ones you should be okay.
Gotcha, I have leftovers from when I stripped out the tension screws in my meepo lol. Another thing though- I’ve noticed that a lot of the belts on the boards I see around hear are longer and thinner, I’m slightly physics illiterate so I’m not sure what the advantage of this would be? Wouldn’t they be a bit less durable? The Meepo ones I have are 255-5m-15, and I’ve had them snap more than I’d like lol.
Regarding the modular battery thing, honestly I’ll just buy the deck I was already planning on then and figure out the modular battery stuff over the long term after doing a normal battery. The concept’s too intriguing to me to not pursue- I did infer that creating a modular battery system would be easiest if each module was a parallel group and each one were put in series- but wouldn’t that mean that adding modules would require making a progressively higher voltage battery? The entire reason I’d want something like this is so that I can just scale range depending on how far I’m trying to go so that doesn’t seem too practical, but idk shit lol.
Why does no one ever mention that plastic wheel pulleys can just fucking melt when using them??
These looked completely normal and had minimal wear on them this morning. Went to the grocery store and came back and they were still fine. Few hours later I went to go drop of package and on the way back I started having issues. Couldn’t stop to try and fix it as I didn’t want to shit myself. Got back and the pulleys looked like this. I was less than 3 miles away from home when the belts started skipping on me and my acceleration felt slow.
common sense
And yet no one ever mentions it when people bring up the topic of metal vs plastic wheel pulleys
your board didn’t catch on fire by chance?
knowing you, you don’t have a ride logger?
Surely you must have heard them skipping before they turned into an infinite reduction ratio?
Were they pom?
