Several components are visibly burned out in that pic, I would advise that you consider whether your board and whatever surrounds it in storage is worth more than the cost of a replacement BMS
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At the very least you should get a new bms, you have fried balance resistors but donāt know what else broke. Have you verified the readings from the bms with a multimeter? Will they continue to read correctly? Will it fry if it goes into balance or discharge mode. Are your batteries expensive? New bms is $40-80
Personally I would get a new one the same way i get a new helmet after a fall, itās a zero sum or better a fuck around and find out situation imho. At the least I would monitor 100% in a fire safe place during charging and have the bms completely disconnected during riding or storage.
You do you, just a concerned novice over here 
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That bms probably wonāt balance the group connected to those fried resistorsā¦ and it may have damaged more than is visible.
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I have no idea what the āTQ Monster Kitā is but the M1-AT is the gear drive that would be used for larger pneumatic wheels (7"/168mm and up) as the ratios would not be suitable for smaller wheels unless your motors were higher kv.
With respect to the drive fitting the trucks, I wouldnāt assume the parts would fit. BN parts are all precision parts. This means that unless the hanger profiles are identical, your trucks will likely require modifications to fit the drives. You can circumvent this issue by buying BN hangers with the drives which should fit most rkp baseplates.
Is it bad to run a dual MCU VESC over time with load on only one motor (ie. broken belt)? Iām assuming nothing would happen to the ESC since theyāre technically two separate ESCs, and if traction control is on, the RPM on the unloaded motor would stay about the same as the loaded motor. However Iāve never had it happen in practice, so I have no idea what would actually happen.
I havenāt tested that but I did run it through with some people and their pretty much saying to get a new one, itās not worth running this current one and I gotta solder a wire since it ripped off for my receiver anyways so might as well just get a new one and repeat since I did just get new batteries for $174 so there is more value then before in it
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Most likely, Iām just gonna go with my gut and get the new BMS, it might seem like itās working fine but you never know what truly happened inside, plus I got a $174 battery setup recently so I canāt afford all that going down the drain
Good evening guys!
Im chasing a little bit of info. And im fairly new to building!
Ive got 2 X castle xlx2ās to run my new board.
First off. Is there a list of working receivers/remotes that i cant seem to find?
Secondly. How do i go about splitting the signal to both EScās?
Cheers!
It shouldnāt be bad for the ESC aside from you likely running the other side harder. But no, it shouldnāt be ācausing uneven wearā or anything like that, at least not in any meaningful way.
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Use PWM (often incorrectly called āPPMā) and connect power, ground, and signal to one ESC. To the other ESC only connect signal and leave power & ground disconnected (on the radio receiver).
As long as the remote has a servo / PWM output (most do) it should work. The PWM connection is 3 wires. 4 wires is often UART. Some remotes have both.
@fessyfoo do you know anyone whoās experienced in setting these up?
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I know a lot of the stooge guys like to run the GT2B remotes. They are known as a fairly reliable remote, but from memory, the quality of newer models were a little suspect.
In my experience itās a good remote for a good price and the trigger style throttle gives a good throw for a high powered board. Thereās also a couple of different options for 3dp cases for them.
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Cool, I wanted to make sure it didnāt do some weird oscillating thing from the CAN or something that would cause unexpected behavior from throttle input.
Iām not sure if those can be connected with CANBUS.
They are basic PWM input. power/signal/ground. hoyt puck, gt2b i know have been used with them. but basically any PWM remote will work. RC guys do split PPM by paralleling all the wires. Your idea may be better? but idk.
Iām doing dual receiver bound to one remote 'cause thatās how moe does it.
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This way narrows down remote choices yeah? Iām under the impression most remotes cant pair to two recievers.
quietly leaves the chat
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Am i wrong? Probably haha
As @b264 saidā¦ You just split the outputs.
Well Iām confused as I thought Brian was talking about how to connect 1 reciever to both escs.
Im hoping to run the hoyt puck. And it seems doable with some minor splicing