Several components are visibly burned out in that pic, I would advise that you consider whether your board and whatever surrounds it in storage is worth more than the cost of a replacement BMS
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At the very least you should get a new bms, you have fried balance resistors but don’t know what else broke. Have you verified the readings from the bms with a multimeter? Will they continue to read correctly? Will it fry if it goes into balance or discharge mode. Are your batteries expensive? New bms is $40-80
Personally I would get a new one the same way i get a new helmet after a fall, it’s a zero sum or better a fuck around and find out situation imho. At the least I would monitor 100% in a fire safe place during charging and have the bms completely disconnected during riding or storage.
You do you, just a concerned novice over here 
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That bms probably won’t balance the group connected to those fried resistors… and it may have damaged more than is visible.
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I have no idea what the “TQ Monster Kit” is but the M1-AT is the gear drive that would be used for larger pneumatic wheels (7"/168mm and up) as the ratios would not be suitable for smaller wheels unless your motors were higher kv.
With respect to the drive fitting the trucks, I wouldn’t assume the parts would fit. BN parts are all precision parts. This means that unless the hanger profiles are identical, your trucks will likely require modifications to fit the drives. You can circumvent this issue by buying BN hangers with the drives which should fit most rkp baseplates.
Is it bad to run a dual MCU VESC over time with load on only one motor (ie. broken belt)? I’m assuming nothing would happen to the ESC since they’re technically two separate ESCs, and if traction control is on, the RPM on the unloaded motor would stay about the same as the loaded motor. However I’ve never had it happen in practice, so I have no idea what would actually happen.
I haven’t tested that but I did run it through with some people and their pretty much saying to get a new one, it’s not worth running this current one and I gotta solder a wire since it ripped off for my receiver anyways so might as well just get a new one and repeat since I did just get new batteries for $174 so there is more value then before in it
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Most likely, I’m just gonna go with my gut and get the new BMS, it might seem like it’s working fine but you never know what truly happened inside, plus I got a $174 battery setup recently so I can’t afford all that going down the drain
Good evening guys!
Im chasing a little bit of info. And im fairly new to building!
Ive got 2 X castle xlx2’s to run my new board.
First off. Is there a list of working receivers/remotes that i cant seem to find?
Secondly. How do i go about splitting the signal to both ESc’s?
Cheers!
It shouldn’t be bad for the ESC aside from you likely running the other side harder. But no, it shouldn’t be “causing uneven wear” or anything like that, at least not in any meaningful way.
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Use PWM (often incorrectly called “PPM”) and connect power, ground, and signal to one ESC. To the other ESC only connect signal and leave power & ground disconnected (on the radio receiver).
As long as the remote has a servo / PWM output (most do) it should work. The PWM connection is 3 wires. 4 wires is often UART. Some remotes have both.
@fessyfoo do you know anyone who’s experienced in setting these up?
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I know a lot of the stooge guys like to run the GT2B remotes. They are known as a fairly reliable remote, but from memory, the quality of newer models were a little suspect.
In my experience it’s a good remote for a good price and the trigger style throttle gives a good throw for a high powered board. There’s also a couple of different options for 3dp cases for them.
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Cool, I wanted to make sure it didn’t do some weird oscillating thing from the CAN or something that would cause unexpected behavior from throttle input.
I’m not sure if those can be connected with CANBUS.
They are basic PWM input. power/signal/ground. hoyt puck, gt2b i know have been used with them. but basically any PWM remote will work. RC guys do split PPM by paralleling all the wires. Your idea may be better? but idk.
I’m doing dual receiver bound to one remote 'cause that’s how moe does it.
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This way narrows down remote choices yeah? I’m under the impression most remotes cant pair to two recievers.
quietly leaves the chat
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Am i wrong? Probably haha
Well I’m confused as I thought Brian was talking about how to connect 1 reciever to both escs.
Im hoping to run the hoyt puck. And it seems doable with some minor splicing