Ok question times: splitting the pwm signal from a remote to multiple vesc inputs - is this a better method for using a pwm remote on a dual vesc?
What are the advantages/disadvantages of running this vs the standard single input and letting the vesc forward the signal via can to the second or more units? Is it lower latency or just a more robust connection or something. I kinda see that it could be more reliable but I don’t understand the system well enough to know why to do it or when not to
yeah split PWM is an option. just y connector (or @b264 style described above) for one receiver to two ESCs. this is how a hoyt puck was hooked up for mario. .
So I recently replaced the drv and stm32 on a flipshit 4.20 and I have this issue where the green led won’t turn on unless I quickly plug and unplug the power connectors. When I can manage to get the green light on, it communicates with vesc tool and everything works fine. Maybe it’s something to do with the voltage regulator? I haven’t a clue to be honest.
super easy dude. follow the method Brian mentioned above.
The puck is a ppm remote, the receiver has red, white and black wires coming off it. they all get connected to one of the escs and then you ‘split’ the white wire off and send that to the other esc.
The red and black wires provide the receiver with power from the esc. The white wire sends the signal from the receiver to the escs. Some people may be getting away with splicing all 3 wires to both escs, but it’s not necessary and potentially dangerous.
I have a BKB duo and one of the motors died. I am looking at buying boardnamic motors and gear drive. How do I figure out what wires go where on the connectors? I can’t find anything on what the wires do in the zenith esc?
The bn motors are the same as Flipsky motors, color code is red-pos, white-temp, blue green yellow- h1 h2 h3, black-ground/negative/reference
The orientation will usually be in the same order listed above. If you have 6wire motor sensors and 5 ports on the esc the white temp sensor is usually omitted. If it doesn’t work reverse the order, i have never hurt anything with them backwards but Pinout pdf for the esc is below so no stress.
Phase conductors order doesn’t matter and will be set in software when you do motor detection
Xenith_Dimensions.pdf (278.3 KB)
Anyone know why I would get DRV errors on a Unity every time I power down? Happens every time and always both sides, but never any issues while running, using the built in button and no loop key, 12s system and relatively low current…1000W combined on a up hill launch?
I don’t know as to why it happens but it’s not an issue as far as i know. Happens on mine as well.
Oh good, thanks
Yeah, same here.
its been like this since the early days, no one really knows why, but it doesn’t seem to trigger anything else either, so i’ve learnt to just ignore that
I’ve been clearing them idley for a while now too, just wanted to make sure I haven’t doomed myself 
Probably a stupid question… but can I put TB218 hangers on a Paris baseplate? Thats the only baseplate-only sold in shops where I am from.
I just bought @Evwan 's board and I’m trying to get it going.
I unplugged his Hoyt puck receiver since I don’t have a puck, and unplugged his robogotchi so I can plug in my vx4 receiver to the UART.
I’ve def got the rx/tx the right way around since it’s wired the same as the cable I used on my old stormcore that exploded and the remote is showing the connection icon and battery level which it doesn’t if the tx/rx is the other way around.
But the board doesn’t respond to throttle input.
It does seem strange this was already set to UART if the previously plugged in receiver was presumably ppm?
EDIT: NEVERMIND figured it out.
You need to set some setting for UART remotes under the “VESC Remote” setting even tho for PPM remotes you set them under the PPM section:
Yes
Hmm my next issue is this board doesn’t charge…
When I connect to the BMS I see this:
I’m thinking this might point to a disconnected balance wire?
I don’t see any issue with the wires going into the BMS:
I’m thinking of pulling off the fish paper from the top of this battery so I can check the wires.
Question maybe someone can assist with:
I loctited my motor pinion gears, let it cure for a day, and then realized I needed to take another 2mm or so off of my motor shafts. So I cut that 2mm off with the pinions still loctited, but I was thinking… the shaft got pretty damn hot from the Dremel friction. Is it possible that I destroyed the integrity of that existing green loctite? Should I torch it and re-apply?
Honestly taking these damn pinions off is such a bitch, but I’m thinking it’s safest to just bite the bullet and re-apply rather than risk a failure. But I also really wanted to ride this board tomorrow for the first time in months. Opinions?
You could re apply and mesh it and wait for it to set it should be fine by tomorrow
Also i use spacers instead of cutting shafts they seem good
