Ay thanks for all the help everyone. I guess i can always send pictures and pester you guys if i have an issue, haha. Hopefully i can order the parts soon!
You can usually contact the seller and have the connector changed on chargers. Make sure you know the pinout you need (which one is positive & which is negative).
Soldering is a great skill to have in this hobby, if only so that you can do your own maintenance. If you Google for soldering practice kits, you learn on a low stakes project
You can also duckgo or search any other way you’d like.
Is there such a thing as a too tight belt? Working on a setup where a 310 length belt can fit it but it is pretty hard to get it on. The 315 is a tad loose and I’d need to run idlers on it which I have and the mounts support them so not hard to do which seems like the inferior option.
I have another set up that has perfectly fit belts where they slide on easily once everything is mostly aligned. This 310 belt has it to where everything has to be 100% perfectly aligned to slip the wheel pulley onto the belt.
I have no issues just using the 315 with the idlers but from what I’ve seen on here idlers should be avoided unless you have to use them to get the belt tension right. Figured I’d ask here since I have to wait at least 24 hours for epoxy to cure on the enclosure for the build anyway. (technically I could test it before then but I don’t have a way to clamp the trucks to my desk to test it without the deck)
Edit: should probably clarify that I don’t think I’m stretching the belt to get it on, and I am not using any strong prying on the belt to slip it onto the wheel pulley. At most I slightly moved it around using a pair of very weak stabby tweezers that bend super easily if I try to pry with them.
Absolutely. I’d venture to say too tight is worse than too loose. You do not want belts to be too tight.
“As loose as possible while still not skipping during a hard brake” seems to be the best.
Any idea of what will go wrong if they’re too tight? The 315s do seem like they might skip while braking but I can’t say for sure without testing it first. I just know they’re looser than the belts on my other set up which I know are a perfect fit and work well. that set up was bought as- is used so it still has the same belts, pulleys, and mounts that worked well for it
This wouldn’t be an issue if they made belts with sizes that aren’t multiples of 5. A 313 belt would be a perfect fit if they existed
Does anyone know what the diameter and length of lacroix axles (Hypertrucks) are?
Looking for specs to determine what wheel hubs fit on the trucks.
It’s not a flawless test, but try to hold the motor can firm and roll the wheel in a forward direction with your other hand. Slowly let the motor turn, extremely slowly, while putting as much force as possible on the wheel and as much drag as possible on the motor can. See if you can make the belt skip.
If you can make it skip, it’s not okay.
If you can’t make it skip, it might be okay but might not be.
There will be tons of friction, you will break belts, and it won’t work well at all.
I broke a motor shaft clean off at the circlip groove.
So there is a possibility for shrapnel to be created and launched off the motor. That is very good to know even if isn’t a common failure.
I’ll keep that in mind while testing it by hand tomorrow to see if I can feel/see/hear a difference between the two belt sizes. Knowing that will honestly help a ton in figuring out which to use before putting everything back on the deck and spinning the motors up at much faster speeds.
I would start with the larger belt and only change to the smaller one if you have skipping.
Luckily I was working in a machine shop at the time, so I was able to make a new shaft. But I was very annoyed when I finished my ride with only one motor.
Can I fit the motor pulleys without the outer ring just by loctiting it down and fastening the screw?
Or should I grind down one side of the pulley until the ring sits fully inside the groove?
Thanks
What motor mounts are you using? Usually there is some adjustability for motor position to account for belt tension. Should be able to find a happy place between 310 and 315 without needing a special belt
These mounts have no room to adjust in exchange for being able to use two idlers if you want/need to.
With this mount it is just a single hole with no room to move the motor further to one side or the other. I do know what you mean though as the other mounts I have do allow you to adjust the motor position a small amount. those mounts are permanently stuck to my other hanger though
Ah, got it. Bummer. I’d say go with the looser ones
I’ve never seen motor pulleys that use a snap ring for retention before.
It looks like that pulley has at least one set screw, that’s the usual method, either with or without a shaft key.
If you only have a set screw and there’s no keyway, you should at least put a flat on the motor shaft for the set screw to bear against. That will greatly improve the holding power, and also make it easier to get the pulley off in the future.
Loctite helps, but I wouldn’t trust loctite alone.
The idlers are adjustable - you can see that the idler holes are slots, so you can loosen/tighten the belts by sliding the idlers in/out.
Idlers also help by getting more belt teeth engaged with the motor pulley, further reducing slipping.
With both idlers installed, you can actually run the belts looser than with no idlers and still have more belt-grip thanks to the larger number of teeth engaged.