Thanks dude.
I am now pondering the Garmin Edge 13 Plus.
looks cheaper than the watches… and I was not successful in wearing smart watches in the past.
I need to do some more pondering, but this seems like a cool addition.
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That thing is really little! As long as it fits nicely in the pocket it should be good. dcrainmaker has some great reviews, both in blog format and YouTube on most Garmin devices.
The only feature it seems to lack, if it’s important to you, is the ability to get turn by turn directions using a road map. It looks like it will follow a standard track only, which will prompt you at every curve rather than every road turn.
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begginer in mathematics question ^^
No, first they can be slightly oversized, and second, you need space for fishpaper. So use 22mm as the cell DIAMETER, not the radius.
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oh yeah, obviously, fixed that
yeah, rusin has pointed that out too, I was playing mathematic games that wasn’t that critical
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My VX2 doesn’t power on anymore and when I’m charging it, the battery indicator on the screen goes from empty to full once and then it’s stuck there.
Any idea what might cause this behaviour or what to check to find out?
Thanks
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Have you checked the battery leads inside? They are somewhat susceptible to breaking. Same goes for the antenna piece as well.
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I think @yoyotinker hit the nail on the head, sounds like a disconnected or bad battery
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Couple questions for my first full build I’m working on:
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Mounting/positioning of the BMS. Is it a faux pas to mount the BMS to the top of the ESC via something like velcro, or something else that will hold up but be removable down the road if need be? I have a Stormcore with a heatsink that I will be running, so I wasn’t sure if having the BMS on top of the ESC is no bueno (probably not covering it, but sitting maybe half on it)
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Hoyt puck receiver. I saw a file for a little case you can 3D print for the receiver which would make for a clean mounting job inside the enclosure. Will this affect the signal at all? Was thinking just simple PLA for material.
Not that i am aware of.
Been using mine inside a 3d printed case, surrounded by other tech without issues.
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Anyone else with hall sensor issues on 5.3? I couldnt get my stormcore to detect one side, same with my flipsky. The flipksy works on 5.1, can the stormcore be downgraded as well? What versions of vesc tool are compatible?
thanks!
Edit: talk about dumb question.
It MIGHT BE a chassis connection, for safety only.
In case something in the motor were to short out or break, it would prevent the motor case from becoming hot, and presenting a shock hazard. Typically by blowing a fuse somewhere else.
If the vehicle itself doesn’t have a metallic chassis, then it might be rather pointless.
On the original FIIK build it was screwed into the wooden deck.
Sounds like it maybe wasn’t doing anything
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Difficulty understanding the relationship between erpm, duty cycle, and speed.
From what I can tell, erpm = kV * voltage * pole pairs, in my case
190*12s*7 = 51,072(3.2v) -> 59,052(3.7v) -> 67,032(4.2v) erpm
I bumped duty cycle values up 5% so the limit begins at 90 and cuts off at 95 and I still get cutouts at 28mph/45kph even though my top loaded speed should be in the upper 30s mph. Is this a limitation of my 4.12 escs or motors? cursory reading shows me
Depending on the Hardware you use, it may be limited to 60000 ERPM (e.g. HW rev. 4.xx) and you should pick a motor not reaching this limit. Going beyond this limit may damage your Hardware! The VESC SIX design can reach up to 150000 ERPM.
I suppose that with frictional losses, wheel unbalances, and motor losses, I have not allowed myself sufficient headroom to utilize top-end power. This cutout behavior is noticeable on a full charge, becoming more and more prominent with voltage sag (42v-38.4 batt cutoffs start and end) .
With that said, recommend me a single vesc 6 + motor combo (and kV please)? I don’t ever plan on going faster than 35mph so ideally a setup that will have headroom to appease a wary rider.
The usual recommendation is to gear to the speeds you need, and I could increase my motor pulley or decrease my wheel pulley size, but I’ve found that my gear ratio of 4 is good for 90% of the situations I am in. Acceleration is good and all but if I can’t hold a constant high(ish) speed I don’t see myself continuing my commutes on my board out of fear of cutouts. Days of down-hilling prepped me for skating at speed but cutout-induced wobbles are scary!
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Anyone ever have their Davega switch around menus/scroll up and down/do whatever it wants when applying throttle? While running motor detection on my Stormcore, while checking for forward/reverse on each wheel the Davega would go nutty but only on the right wheel. Left wheel it was fine. When testing the right wheel it would cycle through menus, settings etc.
Stormcore 60D
Davega v1.1x running newest firmware
One thing that comes to mind as a possible reason is when I ran motor detection it said one of my motors was sensorless and the other had hall sensors. They should both be coming up as having hall sensors. Don’t know if this could cause the Davega issues? Numbers on the two motors are different from each other as well, though I couldn’t tell you what half of them mean.
You need to read the tooltip above “Efficiency”
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Missing from the formula is both efficiency and duty cycle. A VESC will only run at 95% duty cycle by default.
erpm = kV * voltage * duty cycle * efficiency * pole pairs
I recently ran a VEC 4.12 on a fully charged 12s battery on FOC with a 190kv motor. The highest eRPMs I could get was 52,242 eRPMs.
I then ran it with a 245kv motor and reached 78,000 eRPMs and it still didn’t blow up but I did get some ABS_OVER_CURRENT faults at currents over 40A.
Setting the fault time to somewhere around 100ms instead of the default 500ms will help if you do get a fault.
I would not use any eRPM limit settings based on the fact that you will be unlikely to reach more than ~55k eRPMs, and those limits can really mess with power output including sudden reduction in power at speed.
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I second this, but I like 85ms personally.
Big enough to feel, but small enough to usually not knock you off balance. And usually big enough on most hardware to prevent magic smoke production.
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