Some use this
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Works surprisingly well, but itās kinda hard to get used to at first. Also itās a pain to readjust and is impossible not to knock around
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I put a small one on my remote and it works well enough but the one linked above is slim enough that Iām tempted to try it
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Im looking to make a @b264 style lid for my undermounted enclosure (RE44 eboosted) so the thing is more or less a self contained box even without the deck.
I was thinking of using fiberglass for this so its somewhat rigid.
Before i ask any questions about execution, is this idea totally stupid?
I have had good luck just putting butyl rope around the top of the enclosure and laying the thinnest rubber sheet you can find on top of it. Then bolt that to the deck with no further sealing.
I would not use something rigid like fiberglass for that.
I case anyoneās interested, the exigence for taking on this project is that there is a huge gap between my enclosure and deck and I donāt believe I will be able to waterproof it in any decent way without something drastic like this. I also dont like the idea of using a foam gasket that gets compressed when the 20 screws on this enclosure are tighted which will likely cause them to bottom out so that the solder joints on the battery become load bearing.
Thatās not at all what Iām talking about. Iām talking about enclosures that fit.
Ignore what I said and I will defer to @glyphiks about gaskets
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The best gaskets I made that needed to take up height were poured with polyurethane. Its a lot of work, but it works really well. Will only work if the gap is consistent all the way around though
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yeah. Part of my issue is that the edge of the enclosure and the mating section of the deck are not even parallel to eachother. I need the gasket to essentially be trapezoidal, or at least compress to that shape. I definitely like this suggestion though, so ill probably end up trying at least a proof of concept with it.
yeah that is definitely not this eboosted enclosure lol
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Honestly, this whole experience has seriously taught me a lesson in skepticism. I thought this enclosure would be a panacea, but next time im definitely building it myself if if dont want it to have gaps rivaling those of a tesla.
Just donāt overstuff it with cells 
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lol. 12s4p in a 12s8p enclosure would feel too silly. I think Iāve learned first hand about that ādont trust numbers from people who have a financial incentive to exaggerate the size of those numbersā thing youre always preachingā¦
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Are you sure itās arranged in the manner which makes it fit the best?
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good question. I think youre probably right in that there is some way to set this up which would allow this to work with no or minimal gasket. Im doing some things which add unnessecrey thickness such as wrap both fish paper and strapping tape around my p groups (negligable thickness addition) and add velcro between by battery and the enclosure (~2mm thickness addition) Im also using a staggered p group arrangement though (2.9mm thickness savings over straight config). Iām using 12awg wire instead of braid which probably dosnt help my situation, and my solder joints are probably a couple mm taller than they need to be in a place or 2. Just from looking at it, i think it would be hard to even fit my p groups in here without any solder or series connections due to the inside height of the enclosure though.
My guess is that this thing is meant to very tightly fit a very specific battery config with a very specific gasket. I have neither the āproperā layout nor gasket because none of this is mentioned on the web page, so my battery simply does not fit as intended. I do not mean to slander eboostedāthe enclosre seems to be quite high qualityābut this one annoyance Iām dealing with is very much an annoyance and is causing me quite a lot of headache.
What deck/enclosure is it?
redember 44 (and eboosted DS enclosure)
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Ohhh yeah. Some of the older RE44 enclosures were 100% too shallow. I believe he rectified it though.
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i bought this a few months ago. it was from Jamie of redember tho so maybe it was old stock idk.
Yes, and the Garmin is by far more accurate. The regular metr works by sending ESC data over bluetooth to your phone then relies on the phoneās GPS for position tracking. My phone (Galaxy S10) will often not record a section at all, or sometimes the app will freeze up if I use the camera and take pictures during the ride or something.
The Garmin does all the logging with itās own internal GPS chip and saves everything to the watchās memory. Once the ride is over then it syncs that log to the phone/cloud for viewing. This seems to eliminate all the phone problems associated with logging.
Metr app:
Garmin log:
The watch screens are fully customizable right on the watch so you can choose what you want to display, like speed, distance, distance to go, time, sunset time, ride time, etc.
Some models even have navigation which I use all the time. You create a route either on the phone app or in a computer browser and then sync it to the watch. It will display a map and give you turn by turn directions by vibrating/beeping before a road turn, or doing a different type of vibrating if you are off course. Itās great for longer rides where you just want to ride great roads and not focus on where you have to go.
The Garmin Connect app/ecosystem is really polished too. Itās definitely geared more for exercise than just tracking rides, but works great for that too. There is a whole app store that adds a lot of customization.
Also works as a regular smart watch, and the battery lasts a solid week if not using the GPS.
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