you have a board that uses some kind of rubber slicks right? I think I saw one with radium proto wheels or SRB ones. What do you find accurate for that one?
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Yeah radium prototypes. But i have no logs as I’m currently experiencing robogotchi/robogotchi user issues.
My urethane board is geared quite similarly and on that I average around 20-21wh/km. On the radium wheels, I’m getting around 26wh/km for similar rides.
It’s a substantial difference for sure, but in my opinio, the comfort/grip pros far outweigh the efficiency cons.
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i think you could figure out the number im looking for without them. If you know the top speed just put in the boards specs into the 3ds calculator then change the efficiency % untill it makes the calc tell you the true top speed.
since im specifically only interested in top speed calculation
I could indeed… but that would first mean reaching top speed on an unproven board 
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lol fair enough. On a separate note, (and maybe I should make a whole thread about this, but) what do you feel you need to do before you consider the board to be safe enough to attempt a top speed run? A certain number of miles? Having riding in a certain set of demanding conditions?
X amount of beer usually does the trick
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Liquid courage will always do the trick.
I think a familiar route and how comfortable you’ve become with the board. All it’s quirks and whatnot. For me that means time spent on the board.
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Totally. Its 100% about getting to know the board. I was nearly there today. Next ride should be it for me.
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For me it’s traffic. If I’m confident some senseless driver isn’t gonna reverse into the road at 50kph I’ll hit full throttle no problem.
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On a brand new board you just built?
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Well I’d have to ride it to my usual speed testing spot, if it can make it there it should be okay enough for a top speed run.
Typically my issues crop up after I hit the first bump in the road or brake for the first time or hit a hill. I feel confident enough to be risky after about 5km.
TBF though most of my experience in this area is with rebuilds/part-swaps/mods and not completely new builds from all new parts.
Yeah i don’t vibe with 5km. 50 maybe.
I’ve been fucked up by way too many things to implicitly trust a vehicle after 5km.
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Bench tests… What am I looking for?
This has probably covered before, but when I search bench testing all I find are Mooch’s battery tests, which are great but not what I am researching rn.
My bench tests consists of throttling and braking, back and forth, to see if I can create a fault… If nothing acts weird, then I strap my gear on crash test dummy it, but I’m thinking there’s probably more to it than that… Maybe there’s a list of bench tests for the common stuff we should be checking on before riding?
Foc openloop it at 80-100a until thermal throttle. Run it on a powered off treadmill 
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Implicitly maybe not, but after 5km I’ll trust it on known smooth pave.
What I get the most worried about is shocks and vibrations. 9/10 of my critical failures have been from things like speed bumps or dropping curbs.
Maybe if settings were my most scary component I would have your perspective.
That’s known as a high end brand in the FPV race quad/aerial photography world. The top of the line models look frakking INSANE, 45kW in a 100x180x28mm package? That’s basically a motorcycle.
One thing to look out for in the spec sheets is that the regen rating is only 10% of the forward current spec. These controllers are meant to just spin down propellers to gain high fidelity thrust control, not suck kinetic energy out of the entire vehicle + rider.
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Anyone know the best zero frequency start for flipksy 6374 motors? Defualt is 30 and the tutorial for hfi recommends 32. Even on no hw limits the stormcore will not set above 30.
Thanks.
Edit one sensor broken.
Do any of you use mirrors on your helmets to see behind you? What one do you like?
I tried it, but something that close to my eye drove me bonkers. If you skate to your local bicycle shop, they probably have 3 or 4 to look at.
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