Seems like it’s not a fork from the VESC creator, it’s the work of @b264
It is forked from Vedder.
But he didn’t fork it. This is essentially an “unofficial fork”
It is forked.
Sounds like a duty cycle issue.
Search the forum for the term ‘duty cycle limit start’
It is recommended to be set at 85% (for both motors!) But some people have successfully run up to 90% and maybe even higher.
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I’ve had success on 95% with certain setups but not in general. YMMV
If you never hit top speed then it won’t ever be an issue.
It’s at the moment you hit top speed, at the most dangerous time during your ride, when it can start jerking and cause you trip off the board.
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Yeah l am at 85 limit start and 90 cutoff. I dont think im close to top speed but maybe erpm limit? Not to sure if i should mess with duty cycle since vescs and motors blow like that
I always set mine to 85% start and leave the limit at it’s default, which i think is 95%
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These aren’t settings I’m aware of.
This is a very confusing setup with all the similarly-named settings that can be very dangerous if adjusted wrong. It would help a lot, both yourself, and others reading, to include the actual name of the settings.
I’m going to guess you mean 85% Duty Cycle Current Limit Start and 90% Duty Cycle Maximum. (for everyone else reading)
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Can bushings get deformed but still have the same shape? Board got under a car, after checking the battery and all other parts they seem ok. Thing is the board feels ‘too carvy’ from before, bushings look the same to the naked eye…
When bushings compress they heat up.
When bushings heat up they get softer.
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Anyone know anything about this ESC? Seems to be on a DC brushed motor. I need to reconnect the wired remote.
Check the hanger to see if it got bent out of shape at all. That is what happened with mine and made it a better truck in my opinion. Thousands of miles after being run over, the truck has not had any issues as a result of the car running over it. It now acts like a raked hanger would which is why it carves better/ different.
That being said, depending on the hanger type and length, if yours is bent and you replace it I might buy the bent one from you. Since I am insane and like bent or raked hangers.
Doing a sanity check here, does this wiring look like it’s solid?
Should be following this wiring diagram:
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Put shrinkwrap over the bullet connectors so they can’t vibrate apart
Same with servo/PWM connector
And cable tie (or tie with string) the XT60 together
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Oh absolutely, wiring isn’t done as you can see at the moment. Was waiting till the end to button everything up.
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You don’t want to connect an external battery directly to your internal battery like that, it is a major fire hazard if both loopkeys were to be plugged in. Why not have a single wire that you move?
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Have the ESC connected to a male XT90 and plug it into one of two female XT90S, one for each battery.
No “key” at all.
They physically can’t be connected at the same time
see: Captured Loop Key - Design, Development, and Documentation - #17 by DeadLightning
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