That goes for the order of the wires in the JST connectors also? I know I had seen that about the larger bullet connector cables from the motor, but I didn’t know the H1 H2 and H3 in the JST-6 didn’t matter
Yeah those are the hall sensors. I think the order does matter.
Here is the stock JST on a newer TB motor with the temp sensor (white) which I can confirm works well on a Stormcore
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Perfect thank you! Looks like I just need to swap my green and yellow wires and mine will match up with yours. Thanks for the picture 
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Nope, I misread and thought you were referring to phase wires, not sensors 
But just out of curiosity, I looked into it further and you can do it… It just may or may not work depending on phase order.
https://eggelectricunicycle.bitbucket.io/Various--Finding_Motor_Phase-Sensor_Combinations.html
Unicycle source though so ymmv
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All good! I didn’t realize the TB website listed the order of the wires - I saw how they were labeled but completely skipped over the part where it said their order 
All set now. Just need the rest of my parts
We need better sensor cable connectors as a standard. Those things are weak and will fail if you look at them funny for too long.
But then again, with escs handling sensorless motors better and better, sensors may be obsolete soon.
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Welp bearings must have been shot. Replaced motor bearings and it sounds back to normal. Weirdly the tb 6374 uses 3x 6800-rs instead of a combo of 2 small 1 big. Nevertheless, I checked each of the bearings by hand and they seemed fine, but through all the struggle to get them out I decided to replace all the motor bearings. here to hoping for another thousand klicks with no issues 
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The order of the hall sensors (and phase wires) doesn’t matter, but the power, ground, and temperature (if present) do matter.
The hall sensor order and relationship to phase wire order will be detected during motor detection.
If the motor spins the wrong way, either { reverse it in software } OR { swap any two phase wires and redo motor detection } .
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Or you run screaming HFI because your TB6380 ate all your sensor wires 
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My way to remember it is think of hall sensors and phases as arranged in a triangle in the motor. If you change the order the triangle just flips on one of 3 axis. Super easy mnemonic IMO.
Help me decide on what to do because I need validation: Should I add the satin clear coat onto the motor mounts or leave it with the flat black enamel only?
Flat black on the left, original coating on the right
Photo inside before the flat black cured. OG on the left and flat on the right
How it looks completely flat black and then the base plate has the satin finish on top of black
- Flat black
- Satin black
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Pretend this counts as a beginner question
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hello i am almost done with my esk8 build but i am unable to control the motors with the remote (flysky vx1) i use a dual vesc. i udated the firmware to 5.3 on both esc, i ran the setup motor FOC( everything worked fine) i bound the remote to the receiver and then i did the"setup imput", i set it to ppm but then nothing hapens the vesc tools doesn’t see the imputs and the wheel don’t spin .
I checked and the receiver is bound to the remote.
The firmware is updated.
And the motors are detected by the vesc tool.
i pluged the receiver in the esc with the 3 wires 5v gn and signal. for ppm
nothing worked.
i also tried to plug the reciver with the rx/ tx / volt and signal 5v gnd lead to another port on the esc.
still nothing hapens when i raise the throttle.
i hope you can help me find why the receiver doesn’t spin the motors.
i can send pictures or a video to help .
thx
these are the 2 ways i tried to plug the receiver i was hopping the "simple way " would work fine ( ppm only 5v, gnd, signal)
but nothing detects the imput i give with the remote…
My flux linkage between my two motors differs by one mwb. 4.93 versus 5.93. Is there something sus going on?
I generally like all numbers to within 5% of the other motor, try running detection again and see how much it changes
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Check all your wires and connections, might have some instability
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That looks like not only are the bearing pockets a bit loose, but the spacer between the bearings is also too long. See if you can find a spacer that’s 1-2mm shorter. Ideally you want the outer race to seat against the wheel just a tiny bit before the inner races bottom out against the spacer.
I’m using Zealous built ins so it’s not a spacer issue. Just an oversized bearing seat
I respectfully disagree. You have two issues: The bearings are loose in their seats radially, and the bearings are also loose in their seats axially.
If it were truly “just an oversized bearing seat”, then the wheel wouldn’t slide up and down like that. It might wobble, or it might have measurable radial play, but it would absolutely not move axially, like at all.
Either your wheels have their bearing seats too deep (doubtful, looks like either bearing will sit flush as expected), or your spacers, built-in or not, are too long for that wheel.
Get some shorter spacers.
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