But 48v would mean 4v max per cell, not 50.4 / 4.2
wouldn’t make sense to label a bms with 48v if it charges to 50.4, no?
this is what he would need if he wants a full 50.4v battery.
this is still valid tho
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I think these “nominal” voltages are just carry overs from the old lead acid ebike days. More of a model number than an useful rating. The spec sheet shows it will cut off at 4.25v/cell and resume charging at 4.15/cell, so it’s expecting to charge to 4.2v x 12s = 50.4v. It also starts balancing around 4.18v/cell
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I have left it on for several hours past “full” at 48v. The brick gets warm and stays warm. Is it safe to use a 50.4v charger with a 48v bms? or is the heat just prematurely wearing out my battery/charger?
I think it’s a 50.4v BMS. I think you have a bad p-group. Check all 12 p-group voltages for fun 
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It does say li-ion. I am scared to check p-groups after I shorted my old battery and big spark. @haven did you ever charge it up to 50.4v or did it stay at 48v? He assured me the pack was balanced so I am inclined to not touch it over disassembling my enclosure. Out of fear
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I’m fairly confident it charged to 50.4v just fine. Do you have a Bluetooth module to connect to and check?
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So after you unplug the charger, the voltage at the battery is only 48?
If so, put the negative lead on the negative battery XT90, then use the positive lead to touch the pins on the balance connector. nearly impossible to short anything doing it that way. It will give ascending voltages, but just throw it in google sheets and subtract the previous value to get a full list of p group voltages.
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that’s the standard label on Daly bms unless u meet their moq for custom order to change that 
i know its dum, but so does all the other ebike battery stuff
No bluetooth module. I also run ancient 4.12 vescs. I will report back the voltages next time I crack her open. Appreciate your inputs @jaykup @haven @xsynatic @frame
Editttttttt we at 48.8v and climbing!
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Want to change out my Hoyt puck remote to the VX4 just because i like the idea of having a display. How easy is this process?
Stormcore60d in lacroix board
The connectors are all good, but I did solder new extensions to the phase wires instead of using bullets to extend them. I used the method in the vid below, and wrapped the phase and extension cables together with high awg wire from some jumpers I had laying around and then soldered them together… I also extended the other motors cables, but I didn’t bind the cables together on that one before soldering, just splayed the two sides together and soldered. They’re solid, but kinda ugly but also haven’t been an issue. I’ll open up the motor to check the windings, the lc100 meter looks like a cool and useful tool, but I don’t know what I’m doing with the mods needed for it to be accurate… Do you think my motor extensions could be the issue? I was actually pretty pleased at how well they turned out when I bound them prior to soldering. Flite Test - Solder Thick Gauge Wire - FAST TIP - YouTube
Woo! Hope the pack keeps treating you well 
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You must be new around here 
They’re names, that’s why they use the word nominal. Just like George is a name. It’s not really more characters to just say 12S, so I’m not sure why all the stupidity. At least the number 12 there has a specific meaning.
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Whys my motor so squeaky? This sound only happens under load which makes me wonder if my belt tension is too high or my motor bearings are shot
Still works but i feel failure on the horizon
When riding in areas with a lot of debris (but not on actual gravel trails) is it better to have the motors under the deck or to have them behind the wheels? Texas doesn’t believe in street sweepers and I haven’t figured out what orientation to use for a belt drive that is safest. Clearance shouldn’t be an issue thanks to stacking two half inch risers on the back truck by default, but phase wire length could be an issue.
Not sure if my soldering iron can get hot enough for 10 awg wire and I haven’t been able to find good 10 awg wire. Wire issue is easily fixed if anyone has a link to good wire that isn’t expensive
I am in atx and I saw street sweepers last week. But you can use phase extensions or make your own https://www.amazon.com/Female-Brushless-Motor-Extension-Wires/dp/B01NCEJNJB
These have minimal but non-zero power and resistance costs. I use them and my motor detection detects them as 1 amp less power full (64 amps vs 65). Probably within a margin of error of some sort.
As for motor orientation, what difference do you think under the board vs behind would make? I used to run one motor under the deck and the other out behind the trucks but no matter where you put them they get beat up with thane wheels.
Out of curiosity, what debris have you seen on the street?
edit: you don’t need 10awg for phase I think 12 awg is plenty
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Those bullet connectors suck ass. Get the Amass solid ones.
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I was thinking it would be safest to either re solder the phase wires on the motors with longer wires, or to cut and splice the wires + add solder to the splice and cover it with heat shrink wrap. That way there is less risk of accidental unplugging, the joint would be more flexible than the bullet connection, and it can’t unplug itself.
That is why I’m asking here since I don’t know if I’m missing something 
Tons of gravel, dirt, and other construction site run off that they NEVER clean up. As well as various different sizes of glass, plastic, random metal bolts or other metal trash, etc… There is always the typical non hazardous trash too like paper products or plastic containers from food. I’m north of Austin and don’t go into downtown often because it is hot and I get lost too easily and there isn’t anything really worth it to go do and then wait around for my battery to recharge.
I can get to The Domain area and back and still have some charge left but I’d probably need to charge if I skated to downtown and wanted to skate back.
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Omg we gotta skate some downtown trails together! Ever been to critical mass? There is one this friday on 15 chicon.