fake higo 
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You are a wizard of locating random connectors.
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my target is, if i can’t find it in 5mins, then i give up this one wasn’t hard to find
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Haha yes, that does look to be it. Maybe a slightly older version than what they’re offering now (logo in different direction, etc). What do you think… worth leaving on and make adapter using a female > JST or just lop them off?
this method require u to, get a female port, solder wires on the backside, crimp ur own jst pins
the other method require u to
snip the connector and crimp ur own jst pins
sounds to me just getting rid of the mutual connector will be less work involve, and also less connector = less chance of shit coming apart
i’ve never seen anyone uses these connector besides ebikes, the chance of finding a ready made adapter is slim to none
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I buy these jsts pre-crimped with 150mm wires.
Saves some crimping time and they’re cheap enough.
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smart, i always forget u can do that
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same, lop then solder to wires
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They are also inside the Bird scooters
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Yeah everything I’ve seen points to e-bikes. I’ll get some JST’s and cut those things off and solder on the JST’s. Easy enough. Thanks for all the help
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These faults are following the motor. I see that the sensors have gone bad too… Are they related or just a coincidence? Would I be able to fix the issue by using hfi or VSS?
Bump up your absolute maximum current to as high as it will allow and turn on ‘slow abs current limit’
I’ve done this fix, it fixed the issue a bit, but is this safe?
I took your advice and rejiggered my approach. Im hoping this iteration will live up to my expectations. Thanks again for the feedback.
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The absolute current limits are there to prevent the mosfets from shorting or blowing up. If this is following the motor, then I’d try these things before playing with those settings.
- Check the bullets. Bent, corroded, or poorly soldered bullets will cause this error. You can just replace them all if any look suspect, or try to clean them and bend them open slightly.
- Visually inspect the inside of the motor for anything unusual (discoloration, loose windings, etc)
- Get a cheap LC100-A meter off AliExpress or Amazon, modify it, remove the bell, and check each phase’s inductance. If the readings are significantly different, it would point to a partially or fully shorted winding.
- Or just replace the motor
The other thing to look for is motor detection results. If both motors are the same brand/kv, but they are giving readings that are significantly different, you could either try manually adjusting those values to match the good motor, or work on addressing the issues above until it gives similar values.
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My 12s battery has a 48v bms. I have a 50.4v charger. Will this be an issue? My battery seemingly stops charging at ~47.9v according to my voltmeter but the light on the charger stays red. Will it ever hit 50.4? Am I losing out on range by not getting to 50.4v? I see the discharge graph is steep from 4.2v to 4.0v which makes me think at least 90% of the charge is from 4.0-3.0v. I guess not charging to 50.4v will extend the battery life?
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What model BMS is it? Most can have their settings adjusted.
Better to measure current into the battery to see what’s happening around 48v. You can 3d print a case for one of those DC display meters and put it in line with the charger. Really helpful to see what’s going on. There is a whole thread on it:
I used to charge to about 4v per cell just to give the battery some more cycle life, and range was still really good. Probably 80% if I had to guess.
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Deligreencs? Its a 12s 48v bms. I never noticed that some bms go to 50.4v and others don’t… Those dc displays look like a move.
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because of your 48v bms
not with your current BMS.
Simply said, yes. How much? Depends on how you ride.
yes
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Based on the spec sheet I think it will fully charge to 50.4. If it’s not getting there then it might be detecting a poorly balanced p group. Have you left the charger on the battery pack for a few hours? The charger will stay in constant current mode where the voltage will be below 50.4 for most of the charge, and only enter constant voltage mode at the very end.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804204585847.html
Try checking voltages on all the p groups through your balance lead.
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