I got fooled by the void stickers lol
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So, I just got home and went to plug in my ebike to charge, and the charger isn’t working. It’s one of those generic Aliexpress 6A chargers with the extruded metal case, been going strong for several years now.
It’s still functional to some extent, the power and status LEDs still light and respond correctly, but the output voltage has fallen to ~64v and the voltage adjustment pot won’t raise it beyond that. (I have a 20s battery so it should be 84v). I can lower the voltage all the way down to 48v, but it just won’t go above ~64v anymore.
I don’t see anything obviously wrong with the PCB from a cursory inspection.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Ok, so is bolting together two ESCs above each other so I can stack them, a particularly bad idea?
Limited space and want to max out my battery space, so considering bolting through the heatsink fixing points on both, with a rubber or nylon spacer between. Will leave approx 12-15mm between for cabling and jst connectors etc.
Is there any particular risk of shorting things? Will use non conductive spacer, but long steel screw.
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Jup this was the issue. Got it off. Thank you!
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Did two more cycles and it’s back to an acceptable delta, here are some screenshots that I think are the proof it’s not a bad cell, since the 11th pack charges at the same rate.
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You could check the resistors to see if any are open… and measure the resistance of the voltage pot at min and max (maybe compare to the current pot). Maybe remove the pot and try a couple of resistor values until you get back to 84v?
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As long as you don’t melt the bottom ESC’s wires on the heatsink of the top ESC I think you should be fine
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Seems like a low likelihood of that happening, but maybe a bit of fishpaper stuck onto the heatsink fins just in case.
#deepscience 
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That will affect the efficiency of the heatsink, better off tying the wires down
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Yep. will see how it goes. Not gonna be much space in there once cables all plugged in.
What board justifies stacking FSESC 6s?
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A DIY board I’m working on. Not convinced it’s a good idea yet. Considering options.
It’s to go in this, 12s4p p42a. Flexy top mounted enclosure. Stacking them could maybe allow 12s4p, rather than 12s3p or 10s4p (baby packs)
Bigger enclosure to be completed for 12s6p, this is just the first test.
,
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That is a wild design lol, neat idea!
Why not have the ESCs side by side on one of the segments with the BMS under it or something instead of stacking the ESCs?
No bms. Have a 12s balance charger.
Each segment fits 20no. 21700 cells
12s3p or 10s4p is the easy answer.
Flipsky ESC pop risk factor makes me thinks 10s4p could be a good conservative option.
The next one with bigger enclosure and battery can go bigger esc (dv6 maybe).
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It looks like you could get away with mounting one ESC on top with the batteries and then making a second enclosure to go under the deck for the other ESC. It would let you have both heat sinks exposed to outside air if you cut a hole in the enclosures. Would be a good idea if you find you have issues with over heating
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Have some Torqueboard 6380 190kv motors I am going to be using on my build (got them new, second hand). I know typically motors have 6 pin JST connectors but mine have round 6 pin connectors and I’m not sure the best way to connect to my (future) ESC. On the Torqueboards site they show them with JST’s.
I’ll be getting either a Stormcore or Ubox and afaik they both only accommodate a 6 pin JST. Should I snip these off and fit JST’s on them (and make sure they are pinned correctly) or what’s the deal?
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Either that or find the appropriate female connector to the round one there and make a jst adapter from that
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True, that’s the least invasive method. Will have to try and ID this thing
u have a better pic of that connector? side and front
