Not that I can see. Wouldn’t the wheel spin very poorly if the axle were to be bent?
I wonder if it was hit with some WD40, if it would help
i was gonna suggest heatgun 
This happened to me before, and it was because the bearing inner race was rusted onto the axle.
If that’s the problem, try penetrating oil (WD40) and let that sit for a while, then use brute force.
Also next time you install bearings, wipe some oil on the axle. I use a papertowel corner and turbine oil. But lots of oils will work. (not WD40 though)
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I would take a hammer and tap the other side of the wheel and see if you get any movement that way. Adding some grease or wd40 might help as well.
For me, I can get more force on stuff with a hammer vs trying to pull it off with my hands even with bracing my legs on the board.
Using a hammer will also work against parts that are rusted together. It helped and worked for my rusted shut hub motor
Super duper wonky. If you don’t want to deal with crimping, you could always get some pre-crimped JST terminals and solder them on instead.
Thread a sacrificial nut onto the axle so that the nut is still proud of the end of the axle (so when you hammer on it you’ll hit the nut and not the axle itself), and give it a couple of healthy whacks with a hammer.
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Question: have any of you guys got experience failed hall sensor in mid trip ?
It happen to me today after work, i was riding the board from my work place to the mall and everythings working fine, in the mall i walk around and draging my board with me, but when i cam out from the mall going to ride to the train station suddenly one of my motor hall sensor is failed, try to do manual detect the hall in slave channel but failed.
Setup:
12S4P P42A
Fuckbox unity+
Flipsky 8384 170KV
It’s sencond time that i got this issue with the same motor brand and same channel.
Thank
Yes.
You can just kickpush the board above the sensor cutoff and it will ride normally. It’s typically around a few km/h (a few mph) and easy to get above.
(that’s without any reprogramming)
Yea, was in there to change the slave channel into sensorless mode.
I suspicious Focbox hade shipped some spicy voltage into hall sensor, because this case happen in same channel for both motor that hall got toasted.
Already pull out the fuckbox out and measure the 5V output and it pumped out only 4.5V in sensor port.
BTW that motor only 3 weeks of use.
I have measured my belt size to be 298 (so I guess 300mm). Since my motor mount requires an idle pulley I probably want to add some additional length (to account for the idle pulley) say 305 mm belt. This belt size is either hard to find in stock, or really expensive. I found this on amazon, but it says it will take a month to deliver it. I found a store selling a HTD 300mm 5M 14mm belt. but then I only have 2mm wiggle room for the idle pulley, which might not be enough. Not sure what to do really. I could buy the one I found on amazon and just wait a month but still, I’d rather not wait that long.
Did some more digging and finally found HTD5M BELT 15MM WIDE LENGTH: 250->480 MM – ElectricBoardSolutions this site, it’s 27 euros (of which 19 euros is for the shgipping) for 1 belt, but there doesn’t seem to be a cheaper alternative
I’ve had a good experience using vbeltguys.com a handful of times.
Here is a 305-5M-15 belt:
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appreciate it, but the shipping would be 35 euros to sweden 
This is my oldschool ollin mount
I have a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6374-192KV Brushless Outrunner Motor motor
I managed to attach my motor to the mount by having the mount drilled to fit the motor. The motor is technically too big for the mount which is evident by the fact that when I try to fit a regular M8 screw through the idle pulley holes, the head will catch onto the motor and not fit, furthermore the wheels are 97mm, meaning that I can only fit 2 skate bearings onto the idle pulley bolt, and for a 15mm belt this might cause issues with the belt falling off.
In light of all these issues, I have contemplated that it might just be easier to get a new motor mount with adjustable motor length (and that is also made for my motor). The problem is that I don’t think there are any such motor mounts available for my ollin truck, meaning I would also have to replace that truck.
I did some googling and found this motor mount that should fit my motor (6374). But that would require me to change my truck to a caliber truck; which would be fine by me.
However, before I purchase a new truck and motor mount, I just want to check if there is a motor mount available for my ollin truck that has adjustable motor seating such that an idle pulley is not required. Is there?
I saw that they made an updated motor mount (v2) but that was quite a few years ago, and it seems to be sold out on there website and is way too expensive – It would be cheaper to replace the truck entirely with a motor mount and caliber truck.
I would first try simply not using the idlers. They aren’t usually necessary.
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Alright, I measured (by using your highly empirical measuring method) that the belt should have a length of 298 mm, obviously there’s no such size so I would have to settle for 300. Do you reckon that this would cause an issue with belt not being tight enough causing skips and whatnot?
I’d try it and find out 
Likely to be okay. If it skips, it will skip on hard braking, so check that first.
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thank you
How do you open a Stormcore? I have the plastic cover off and the 2 flat heads in the bottom out but the halves of the heatsink refuse to separate
Two bolts for the plastic cover, then push down on the top center and remove the plastic cover
4 bolts on the bottom, remove those
Then just the top heat sink will come off. It takes some force as they get stuck on with the silicone pad.
Once the top heatsink is off, there is one more bolt that removes bottom heat sink (also needs some force to remove)
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Yeah the top of the plastic cover has two little tabs that hook underneath the alloy. You need to push the plastic down to release the hooks and slide the plastic cover forward.
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