Would it work to get a single stack enclosure, build your board, and then stack up a bunch of laminations of wood ply or GF to mask the join?
1 Like
That may work, I wonder how flush looking I could get that though. I imagine something like that would work best with a rubber bumper around the edge of the board or something.
I also mayyyyy have already ordered another blem dinghy…
2 Likes
Yeah that’s a good point about the lip and flushness. I’ve got almost no experience with woodwork and composites so there’s a big grain of salt here, but it does sound like the kind of thing that could be perfect to build up a bit of excess material and sand/grind/router back down to shape. Small increments and rinse and repeat, then finish with paint or veneer, like filler in walls or old furniture.
2 Likes
Spiral extractors bite in while turning the bit to the left and then you continue turning them to the left to remove the screw. That way you ensure that the extractor always has a good grip while removing the screw.
1 Like
Correct, but if you use a drill bit that’s anti-clockwise, sometimes the stuck bolt comes out before you even use the spiral extractor, and if not, it’s not made any tighter by the drilling process.
1 Like
The bolt has won today’s battle, we fight again tomorrow
6 Likes
Did you try to heat that bolt before all that ?
So, I’m trying to use a lm2596hvs buck converter but I get 0 volts on the output. No matter how much I turn the “regulator” (don’t know how it’s called) that thing gives no output voltage.
I tested continuity and on the negative in-out was ok, but on positive it’s not. There is continuity from positive out to the first 2 pins of that regulator thingy and then not on the third or the positive “in” side.
Is that thing broken, or am I just dumb?
Heating it would just make it more stuck though since metal + heat = expansion. Plus it might risk melting the plastic. @ARCTIC Tossing it in the freezer might help and won’t hurt to try.
Got a tiny vice grip? You might be able to grab the heads with a thin one. I can mail you mine 
1 Like
IDK, sounds broken honestly. Do be aware that those are typically 10-turn potentiometers.
Did you accidentally connect it with wrong polarity the first time?
I might, I can look around in my garage. The problem is that not only is it stripped but it is torqued down insanely hard like it feels like it was impact wrenched in there. That’s why its so hard, I can get it to bite a little doing certain things but its just never enough to get it out.
No, but every time I connect it I hear a little sound like sparking, without it showing any sparks…
I will get a new one and try again
1 Like
The tiny inrush (spark) is normal.
I’d try finding a torx but that can tap into it snug and use an impact drill to try and free it. Probably has loctite of some kind in there.
1 Like
Ive tried, none of my torx bits are useful, I tap one in and it just slips before anything happens.
You do not want there to be continuity between all 3 pins on a pot since if there was then you’d be getting the max resistance on it at all times and the screw wouldn’t allow you to adjust the resistance at all.
I can also confirm that it is normal to hear a spark.
Looking up the part it is listed as being able to handle only up to 53 v. What is the voltage for your battery? The listing also mentions that a heat sink may be needed to avoid over heating so you might have fried it with too much heat
Also in the future you might want to avoid using red heat shrink on the negative lead of your power cable. Doing it that way can easily lead to mistakes due to the swapped colors
My hall sensors are working, but motor temperatures are wrong. NTC 10K: -6C, if i set the sensor type to NTC 100K at 25C then i get 53C. The true temperature is 32C, that was esc temp, ambient temperature is 24C.
Im using tomboi escs, with 5.3, and flipsky 6354 motors.
How can i fix my motor temp sensors?
most of the time heat get rid of watever threadlocker that could be preventing you from unscrew it.
If you realy want to play on the expension thing you can edit: put everything in the freezer for a bit and then heat the nut only with a solder iron
1 Like
My battery is 12s so it should be within its limits. But if you know of another alternative buck converter that would be better for my application, please point me to it. I’m trying to connect lights and led strips to the main battery.