I’ve found the opposite to be true for my board, but I also have trouble and strain my shoulders when trying to remove corks from bottles. The extra leverage is needed for me lol
1 Like
That was my experience too, The only way that I could get a couple out was to use a set instead of a driver.
1 Like
You should go pick up an appropriately sized spiral screw extractor. All you need to do is drill a small hole into the bolts and then use the extractor to slowly bite into the bolt so you can then unscrew it. I’ve had luck using a small one on very small hex head bolts.
You do need to drill further into the bolts than you would need to on a different bolt head, but it works. Also only use the extractor with a hand tool or a vice grip when screwing it into the bolt. The key to getting it to bite into the bolt is to push down hard while slowly turning it. If it doesn’t bite in then the pilot hole isn’t deep enough.
This is the type of extractor I used. Specifically the Irwin brand one since they carry them in a few different sizes for cheap at Lowe’s and they were the only extractor that would work on M3 bolts
Here’s this tutorial too if needed
2 Likes
Thank you very much.
1 Like
No problem. If it doesn’t work the hole drilled should still be smaller than even the shaft of the bolt. For my M3 bolts the threaded section was only barely larger than the pilot drill bit, but you should have more space to work with on those larger bolts.
Last resort would be to very carefully drill out the entire bolt but it will be a pain in the ass with how long they look
Edit: almost forgot to mention that it may also help to remove the hanger from the base plate that way it might be easier to get to the bolts without stuff getting in the way. That helped me remove the inside stripped bolts on my hub motors.
Personally i think the easy-out/screw extractor should be a last resort. If you fuck that up, you’re fucked.
Y’all must have weak muscles if you can put more torque on an allen key than a driver.
Get a torx driver that is ever so slightly too big to fit in the hex. Tap it in nice and straight, and put pressure on the driver as if you are pushing the screw in as you wind it out.
4 Likes
My shoulder muscles are continuously killing themselves due to lack of oxygen, so yes. 
Kind of hinted at my strength/lack of strength by mentioning the cork issue.
I also had luck on some of my stripped hex bolts using a similar method, but did have to use the extractor on the last 2. It worked for several stripped bolts though. Completely forgot about that method working on some of them so it is good that you mentioned it. I had to put most of my weight on a straight driver while slowly turning it if I remember correctly.
1 Like
that doesn’t make much sense to me, tourqe=force at a distance so how would having a driver that’s hard to grip in the first place and has no leverage be able to apply more torque than something that allows you to get leverage and is way easier to grip. Thanks for the info, Ill try, I don’t have many Torx bits so I couldn’t find one that works for this. but Ill try to find one, Its a 3mm hex so what would you recommend? the closest I can find is a 3.5 and that seems too big.
I would guess because it stays in the hole better. That could just be something my exs have all said when they cheated.
But its easier to apply downward force with a real handle that thin metal bar so the bit stays engaged as you turn
This drill bit is twisted the wrong way for extracting screws. You want one that cuts in the anti-clockwise direction.
3 Likes
Something like this is ideal. As for the size of the torx, it shouldn’t fit if you just try and put it in, it will require gentle to moderate tapping to get it to seat.
This method has never failed me.
I’ve ruined my day many times trying to use screw extractors.
2 Likes
Hot glue.and its done
Nuclear option - jbweld steelstik the hex bit on there
5 Likes
Is it possible/has anyone previously turned a regular deck into an integrated deck? Like either by building up the bottom side with fiberglass/wood layers where the enclosure would be and routing out the top? I’m already assuming that this would pretty much completely compromise the structural integrity of the board but was curious if it had ever been attempted. I would like to make a more inconspicuous kicktail board but most of the decks I see are more like the Haya which is like a normal longboard or the enclosure is very obvious on the bottom of the deck still. Looking for something that is more rounded/gradual sloped.
3 Likes
Like the old tomiboy integrated decks?
1 Like
There was a local dude here who had done it to an exway x1 and it seemed to hold up ok.
It would be a fair amount of work and it would probably always be a little scary to ride because you’d always be waiting for it to snap 
Would be a sweet project tho 
Actually… pretty sure @Arzamenable cut the middle out of his redember deck for similar reasons
2 Likes
If I remember correctly those still had a very distinct enclosure outline to them, I’m looking for something the could pass as a regular board if you didn’t look at it too hard. The exway x1 hub is the closest thing I’ve seen but that is still traditional longboard style.
I still think the way to go is to stack two decks. You’d have to get creative with truck mounting and system flex, but i think it greatly reduces the chance of violent failure.
2 Likes
I like that idea a lot actually. I knew I should have bought 2 dinghys from the landyachtz sale
2 Likes