I’m having some real weirdness here. I do detection and everything seems fine, then I try to use the remote or set FW/rev and the motors don’t turn, they just shake and make terrible noises
I’ve done a hand test to the motors, and have been using them for almost a year now perfectly fine.
Drivetrain hasn’t changed at all since it was working perfectly
I have swapped motors to different ESC sides. Have also installed a whole new dual VESC and after detection, same weirdness.
I have checked all solder and plug connections
Only thing out of the ordinary is that one of my motor’s sensors aren’t connected.
Are your sensors plugged into the correct sides of the esc? Sounds like exactly what happens when you plug one motors sensors into the other side of the esc.
I thought that the common method for gluing up veneers was to use a giant panini press to dry the glue and press it flat at the same time? Or at least they use a press that is made for pressing veneers but can also technically be used for paninis if you wanted to.
Yeah, the “proper” tool for the job is a large heated mechanical press (hydraulic, screw, or otherwise).
A vacuum press like Flyboy is using may just not be able to exert enough force and have enough rigidity to prevent the veneers from doing weird things as they dry.
That’s why I’m thinking that using non-waterbased glues might be the best bet short of building a better press.
I bought new wheels that didn’t come with any bearings, and since I lost a wheel with the bearing and spacer, I would have to purchase them separetly. My question pertains to the spacer bearing (the spacer between the bearings). I looked online and found something similar to it called sliding contact bearing I
I think these bearings are similar enough to the spacer bearings that the function would be the same. I just want to double check that these would actually work or if I need to look elsewhere for such spacers? If you’re interested, these slider contact bearings comes in various sizes but the one I am looking at is 8x10x10 (mm)
They look like they’d work fine so long as you don’t crank down your axle nut. I 3d print any random size spacers i need, but gotta be careful not to tighten them too much either as they do compress a little.
What do you guys do to keep your motor clips from coming off on gear drives? I have the boardnomic at gear drives with flipsky 63100s. the motor clips keep coming off. I think there is a methiod where you put washers between motor and the motor gear. any thoughts? also iv seen people doing it with copper washers but isnt it a bad idea to use coper because of the corrosion and electrolysis?
Trying to get this used pack rolling(Samsung 40t) 12s4p. What llt bms should I get to replace this one?I believe it’s fried got a lil smoke from it when charging. One chip appears to have melted.
Yeah I could probably 3D print one as well. But these were so cheap that I might just buy one when buying the other stuff as well. Although if it fails I’ll just buy a regular spacer
Take some more pics of the jst plug for your bms and email LLT. They’ll tell you what you need. I know they recently changed the harness/jst that they’re using so you might have to solder new balance leads. Previously it was a 2.54mm pitch 16p xh.
If they’re that strongly in the hole already, then you might as well leave them in and then try and drip in some glue between the insert and whatever it is in. The threaded inserts I bought have a flat head slot for removing and putting them in to help avoid that, so you could try making that on yours if they’re big enough.
The ones I have are made for wood so the inside and outside is threaded. If that is what you mean by it being for cutting threads. I bought the version that was more universal since it can be used in both wood, or plastic meaning less versions to buy and store.
Yeah, it sounds like it isn’t going anywhere any time soon. I’d still put a few tiny drops of super glue at the edge of it so it’ll really not go anywhere forever.
I
I’ll try it as well then
