Also its not a bad idea having two packs in one enclosure as long as they are made well ur chance of failure is slim. Bioboard did it for a while without to much grief from wat i know but then again the biggest difference was they used pcbs. Ive had two packs (main discharge and aux pack) in my undertray enclosure going on a year now and never ran into any issues.
But he can always top mount peli one pack and undertray the other which is how my board is setup for my main packs since they are to big to fit in the undertray.
Yeah I’d be bypassing discharge. Double packs sounds nice and ideal but not sure I’d have the space for it. Unless yeah I also do a top mount. I’m not necessarily looking for a range monster in this particular case, but more of a race board/street carver type setup. But I haven’t looked into the type of range your typical race boards would need.
Y’all go riding with your s/o? or commuting? I am wondering how do you keep track of your board at the destination - gf rides a bike so that is easy enough, lock it and done. But ain’t no way I am locking my board to a rack unless its specifically for skateboards like this:
I usually fish a bike lock through some sort of metal component on my trucks (baseplate gap, wrapped around hanger with no slack, etc).
I’ve seen metal plates for decks that use the truck mounting holes… kinda looks like a grab handle. It’s all metal so you lock it through the handle-looking part.
Can you unscrew the truck bolts, disassemble everything, and still steal it? Sure, but it’s a heck of a deterrent.
It would be way faster to just pick that lock open to steal the board. Much smaller tools needed too and it looks like you’re just unlocking your board to anyone else.
Disclaimer: I lock pick for fun and not theft.The worst thing I would ever end up doing is picking someone else’s lock open just to see if I can do it and then just end up putting the lock back on.
I use a Sena 50s on the motorcycle so I put the speakers it attaches to in the esk8 helmet so I can use it on both. Has bluetooth for music and “mesh” for intercoms which is really nice because because it doesn’t need to be paired. It’s just a channel everyone joins like a walkie-talkie.
Yeah but you’re smarter than the average bear. I’m picturing the average bear… Which is a trashy trash human with bolt cutters hanging out of the pocket of their comically saggy jorts.
I think I might attempt to go this route. Do you have a type of urethane resin product I should be looking for? What mold material did you use? Could I use wood If i sealed it with something?
Thats why a split 6p would be perfect for a light weight racer/carving 4wd build. U can have fast charging for both packs and dump more then enough watts for watever u need to without it being to heavy. 12s6p if i recal is only 72 cells so 3p undertray and 3p top mounted in a apache 1800 pelican and ur set
If you decide to blue/black it, I highly recommend avoiding high temperatures (above ~200C or so), as it will cause significant changes in the steel. That oil dip video is a great way to end up with bolts that don’t meet strength spec anymore.
Cold bluing is the easiest, but needs special cold bluing solution and isn’t super durable.
Rust bluing is simple if time consuming, and more durable, and can probably be done with chemicals from the local pharmacy/hardware store.
Caustic hot bluing is quite easy and uses fairly simple chemicals, but they are caustic and have to be heated to over 120C so I won’t recommend that one just from a safety perspective. (the finish you get is really nice tho)
If you’re interested in any of these methods, there’s lots of info to be had online, or I can give more details from my personal experience.
I did a glue up of maple veneers in a vacuum press, and this giant ripple in the top layer appeared halfway through drying. Probably not repairable, right? I assume that it happens due to moisture expansion from the glue. How can I fix this in the future, maybe an additional sheet of material on top to keep those blisters from forming?
Now I have no experience with veneer lamination, but a few things come to mind:
Increase press pressure/force - This will keep things from moving around as much during drying.
Vacuum might just not be enough (max of ~14.7 lb/square inch force at sea level)
Do all the drying in the press - Again, keeps things from moving around.
(Again, vacuum makes this more difficult due to trapping moisture)
Use non-waterbased glue? - Epoxy or solvent-based adhesives should have less of an effect on the wood.
(I know it CAN be done with water based glue, but I’m just throwing ideas out there. Please feel free to shoot them down if you know better.)
Read up on traditional deck making?
Haven’t done much of this but think it’s from expansion as you suggested. Less glue, thinly and evenly applied could help?
Edit
Sometimes veneers are pre dampened before gluing and layup to help confirm to tighter mould shapes. Perhaps pre wetting (spray bottle) so this expansion happens before the layup could help?
