Think I’ll have any connection or interference issues from this layout?
Also MBoards Unity (used) or Xenith 1.0 (never powered)?
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Anyone ever use reflective spray paint? Thinking of putting some on my helmet, worth?
Having done two decks (and the second one still ended up with mild ripples), and some advice from Tomiboi, it was two major things that helped me:
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Doing layers one at a time (takes a lot longer, but the fewer the better) that way you can see any problems as they arise and sand/change process/whatever to avoid big ripples. Make sure you layer it up fully (like put all 8 veneers in your press even if only 2 veneers are being glued together) each time.
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Glue amount. I used Titebond 3, which is water based, and used WAYYYYY too much ending up with giant ripples, as others have mentioned. The amount you should use seems almost ridiculously little - I think Roarockit has definite numbers and I still ended up using slightly more, but that solved most of my problems once I realized.
@Flyboy here’s a link that I used, input the dimensions of your raw sheets and it should give you an amount that seems very low - note that it’s the total for all of your veneers, too! Glue Calculator
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Make sure it’s retroreflective paint in order to bounce the light back to the source. If it just says it is reflective paint it probably is okay to use but double-check to be sure.
I’ve found the tape to be brighter but it can be harder to get it perfectly flat on a curved surface and it can peel off if the surface isn’t cleaned first.
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Cost effective smart bms for a 12s battery setup? Thinking about setting up a 12s4p nese build
Just use a dumb Daly.
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Forgive the potato / many years old pic. I did this to my moto helmet with high quality 3M retroreflective tape and it worked great.
I recently added it to my esk8 helmet (Smith Mainline full face mountainbike) and it was difficult to match the curves, exactly as @Battery_Mooch said, but it’s doable if you use short strips and make slits.
Highly recommend for increased visibility, and to not look like a rave kiddie at all times like the euc guys.
It’s on amazon if you look. I used this stuff: Amazon.com
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If they are like this, the slotted end is meant to go into the hole. The slot helps with stock removal as the outer thread cuts itself into the wood.
If you add epoxy in your hole as well, those slots fill up with bits of wood and epoxy and help give it a really good bond.
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In my experience, running the bolt all the way through the deck is much more reliable.
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Same. But that’s not what’s being discussed here.
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Woah where did reaccs come from? And why?
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Forum update. And why not?
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New game: try to come up with post that gets all fourteen reactions
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Some of my picture posts seem to get reactions like that, some people say “wtf” while others enjoy the thought being conveyed.
Being controversial is sort of a skill of mine.
How would I do that if the hole is only open on one end though? Also I’ve tested them and I can screw the bolt into them from the side with the slot
You need an 8mm bolt that you thread into the insert first, you can drive them in together then back the bolt out
Wouldn’t that cause it to come loose when unscrewing the bolt every time? Not sure I understand why I can’t or shouldn’t just use a flat head to put it in place
Because that side goes into the hole first. No way to grab it with a screwdriver.
Put a short socket head bolt in there and drive it in using the bolt.
Or better yet, get rid of all the inserts, drill all the way through the deck, and put button head 12.9 bolts all the way through with nyloc nuts on the bottom side.
Some of us have aesthetics to maintain 