You planning on maxing out the ubox battery amps? If so do the 10 awg. If not probably 12 is fine but you can’t go wrong with 10 if you’re only running a single ubox and nothing crazy
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I ordered some custom gear drive adapters for newbee RTKP but they don’t quite fit,
how would y’all go about making these work? My first thought is a hand file and some sand paper but I imagine that’ll probably take quite a while. I thought about my Dremel but I doubt I have the skill to get anywhere near flat with that.
Thoughts?
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I had to do some filing on my rear hanger to get my Luna adapters to fit… maybe the best play 
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If i were to use stormcore settings would it be underwhelming riding, or too much for 12awg? I have a stormcore with recommended settings and havent had any issues on my kicktail, i do think that might be 10awg though 
I have no problem using 10awg, but its unavailable everywhere i seem to find xt90s, and anywhere that has 10awg has no xt90s 
i dont want to double up on shipping just for knick knacks.
How close we taking?
Hangers in the freezer, adapters in the oven close?
With those settings I would use 10. But I don’t think you fully use the battery amps. I bet you don’t hit 40mph on the kick tail and cruse there much? (very simplified - battery amps is top speed torque) put your max battery amps to +45a and 12 should be fine. You can push the boundaries a little because the actual draw isn’t continuous but that has already been partially taken into account by the ampacity on the current ratings chart @b264 compiled.
This puts you solidly past the red for 12 ( think of red as time to stop). With 45a and two esc makes 90 total battery amps. You CAN still run this but you will get hot if you stay in the maximum output of your build for long.
12awg at 45motor amps: ok to burst around top speed but not stay for long.
10awg at 45 motor amps: ok to cruse at top speed but not stay forever, cooling breaks after hard rides
12awg at 65 motor amps: burst could start causing problems, thoroughly inspect when forced to top out. Danger. Do not imho. This can start to hit solder temps and make the meat crayons
10awg at 65 motor amps: bursts at top speed but not long sessions. This is why high amp controllers have dual 10 feeds instead of one shared or people run dual singles.
These are my suggestions based off my opinions and my acceptable risk levels. I also think you will probably be happy at 40 motor amps and only notice a difference when you punch it at top speed. Maybe more noticeable at 12s but i feel plenty torquey at 12s 50a and run 10awg
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Hadn’t even considered that, I don’t think it’s quite that close but that’s definitely worth a shot.
It is not that close unfortunately, I’m making slow progress with a hand file and some sandpaper.
Cheers Folks,
I want wo Wire my flipsky dual vesc 6.7 with a loopkey. Without the Antispark switch.
First test on the bench shows me the vesc is normaly turned off when no switch is connected. Since there is no software side to it - does somebody know what pins to jump to make it always on?
Thanks, have a nice one
All p groups are measuring 3.80v ± 0.01v except the last one which is at 4.17. I’m guessing this cell is topping off and telling it to cut charge.
Best option to go ride around and drain the battery some and hope it balances back when charging?
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Dead cell or brokwn weld in that questionable group.
It now has a smaller capacity so it charges quicker.
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Bummer. It sat at storage voltage over the winter and I think I topped it off once last month when I thought the weather was going to be warm. Had it plugged into a power strip that tripped though. I’m gonna be so sad if it’s dead and I have nothing to ride
FYI: asked the question flipsky and this was their Response:
“The corresponding NO and B+ of the switch seat are short-circuited together with a short-circuit cap (that is, the pins of the seat, counting from the left: Pin2 and Pin3 are short-circuited together)”
Works fine 
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Anyone know what bearings are in a janux flux drive or even just if the inner and outer are the same? Hoping i dont have to pull it apart until i have replacements
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Anyone have an .APK file for the old LLT BMS app? My shit auto updated and they took away discharge and charge control and a few updates back they took away being able to see individual P group voltages. Idk what’s going on over there, working backwards like no one’s business.
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@Boardnamics i went to do some checks on my motors and found that one of my pulleys is missing poles?
I have no idea where the Fuck they went but I know they were there before. They aren’t stuck in my wheel either so I’m pretty sure they’ve been lost on the road. What should I do?
I only noticed the pins were missing because a circlip failed on a motor and I’m checking both motors to be safe. I dont think it’s caused any noticable issues at all but I could be wrong. No other pins /cylinders /whatever they’re called feel loose
Edit: also anyone know how long a circlip should last? I’m not a fan of being thrown off my board with no warning. It is worse bc I was in a parking lot and someone was right there to see the failure
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Yes, the white line wire should be the 5v.
If the circlip is just spinning on the shaft and not getting caught on your mount or anything else then I imagine they should last indefinitely. How did a circlip failing cause you to fall?
Lol that’s kinda normal for these. They must be the older ones that have pressed in pins. Later ones also have some retaining compound to keep them in. You should be able to add some retaining compound externally and it should wick onto the pin
The shaft on the motor was allowed to shift to the side misaligning the belt enough for it to get stopped completely I think. I was able to ride home since it pulled the can far enough out to reallign the belt again.
The pulley might have gotten pulled out of place to start with but it was pretty secure when I took it off. The circlip wasnt in the grove anymore when I took things apart. A washer was also destroyed but was still in the groove
I don’t have the missing pins though. The road stole them.
I’ll add some or try to for the remaining pins just in case. I wish one was loose so I could swap the missing ones to be one per pulley or at least make them not next to each other.