Like I said… The only difference is connector size and pins
Order the one that is the correct amount of pins
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You can put 7 pin in the 8 pin hole, just make sure it is aligned to the correct side (5v to 5v)
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Can i spray paint the top plate of my uBox with any paint, or do i need high temp or some other specific paint cause esc, or should i just leave it?
Looking at bioX and want to do something similar with my own.
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Should be fine as long as you don’t paint anything but the plate (take it off). You’ll lose all the silk screen so don’t plug something in wrong later 
even painted most heat sinks do fine and if it gets hot enough to overheat the top plate something else is drastically wrong
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Wondering how important an esc heatsink is and if I can get away without one. I am planning to mount a dv6 in a small pelicase, either with or without heatsink. Would prefer without as it’s easier, easier to work on, and will leave the case stronger and more weatherproof.
Re load on the esc, I’m running apex 6384s 170kv probably at 80-90 amps, 5.5:1 gear ratio, 8 inch wheels, and weigh about 110kg padded. Not riding crazy hard/fast by this forum’s standards, but it does get hot here in the Aussie summer, and I like long rides.
Could the esc heat affect receivers and Bt modules also in the case?
Sage advice welcome!
Hi all,
I have a separate thread about my (re)build here: Golf Skate Caddy - #73 by zero_ads
It’s for golf, but it’s basically a giant, super HEAVY mountainboard with a bracket for holding my clubs as well. So far, i have bveen able to convert everything and get it working, but now I need some VESC expert advice on dialing it in.
The problems:
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Seems to need help with low end torque (getting moving from still). If i am on any sort of incline, it struggles a LOT. The motors sort of “buck” but dont get the wheels moving.
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The brakes don’t ever fully STOP the board. i.e. even if I come to a stop on an incline or decline. Holding FULL brake only slows it down, but doesn’t fully stop it from rolling.
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Related to above… but, can I set it up in such a way that “neutral” on the hoyt sets FULL brake? That way, it will hold on hills while i am taking a shot?
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I need to decrease the upper end speed. It is WAYYYYYY faster than I need it to be.
Can someone point me in the right direction of things to try?
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What are your motor/battery current settings? What battery do you have? What motors?
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I have a brand new 10s6p battery from SBS that I had him build for me.
On the motors… no idea. Best I can tell is they are some sort of chinese ebike motors? All I know is that they are 1000w motors, and one is on the front right and one on the rear left. You can see pics in the other thread. All VESC settings are basically defaults. I haven’t done anything but setup my hoyt puck and do some light testing in the driveway / yard.
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VESC defaults change based on a wide variety of things, having those settings still very much gives useful information in trying to help you.
See if you can navigate to this page (ignore the yellow arrows and numbers. This is from a separate tutorial)
And share that info here.
This is an inherent quality of regenerative breaking, your best bet here would likely be some form of simple mechanical brake.
I’d also recommend this.
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@G8rfn2 Many of us use smart reverse to do this.
As @Egtscs mentioned, we’d need some more info on your VESC parameters to help with the torque issues.
Mechanical brake on an esk8? Travesty!
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I mean, mbs does sell brake kits 
maybe you could do a frontflip if you pull it hard enough going full bore 
you have 2 hands its like driving with both feet in an automatic, one to stop one to go
German law compliant vehicle there
Do people run ESCs in sealed cases with no heat sinks? Any problems with overheating? Any problem with the receiver also in the sealed case?
Planning on mounting in small pelicase and want max weatherproofing and minimum build hassle
Can someone please help me restore my settings on my Lacroix Jaws 2.0 on the Vesc tool app I have completely put them out, I just need instructions on how to get it back to standard. Thank you in advance
It really depends on too much to guarantee. Afaik you can try it without consequences - if you’re riding style and the specs cause it to thermal throttle you take it back apart and cut in a heat sink or add thermal mass. One of the fuck around and find out situations but i think pretty low stakes. Do you have a way to monitor it during a ride? Bluetooth modules are pretty cheap again now that the chip shortage has mostly resolved
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A break kit with a little stomp lever would be kinda cool, not to use when riding but just to lock the board at a stop on a hill or something. Maybe turn on smart reverse - that’s what I use and I skate Seattle hills
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Both of these can be improved by changing the gearing. Increasing the ratio (smaller motor gear/pulley, larger wheel gear/pulley) will both improve starts and torque, and reduce the top speed.
If the gear ratio can’t be increased, replacing the motors with lower KV ones will help as well.
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I did for a lonnnnng time but was going faster and riding further so I was heating up the esc later on.
What’s your board like and how fast/long do you ride?
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6384s 170kv probably at 80-90 amps, 5.5:1 gear ratio, 8 inch wheels, and weigh about 110kg padded. Not riding crazy hard/fast by this forum’s standards, but it gets hot here in the Aussie summer, and I like long rides
I’m leaning towards do it once and do it properly with the heatsink
Appreciate the advice - cheers