make sure you write settings to both sides of the ESC, check all your phase wire and sensor connections and make sure nothing is disconnecting.
I think there is some confusion around stainless steel counter/sink and stainless steel countersink.
I would not add those… More parts… More issues…
But for me it’s fairly easy to unhook the trailer and Lower the arm to the ground even if the kids are in there.
So I personally don’t see the need.
Your situation may be different…
Yep that was the problem, thanks! I was also wondering if 54v is an acceptable cutoff for a 16s battery? Just double checking lol.
Hey thanks, I probably should have known a thread existed already lol.
Alright, my goal is to extend my sensors by about 120-200mm I have:
A couple of these fuckers that have enough length but are adapters from JST PH2.0 to gh1.25 (I think that’s the other connector)
Is it worth the effort to try and repin the other side to male PH2.0? Or does it make more sense to buy something like this:
If you are going to build more than one or two boards, I’d suggest to buy some crimps and a crimping tool. Really good to be able to make what you need.
I have found the Engineer PA09 pretty good.
I have a similar ratcheting crimp tool that I can’t seem to find on Amazon anymore. I’m just not sure how to crimp to the male side.
You have to get the special male ones that aren’t as easy to find.
Usually the solution is to just use the board-mount male connectors and solder the wires on. Not ideal, but it usually works pretty well.
Remember to add strain relief (silicone, hot glue and/or heat shrink) to make sure everything stays put after soldering.
dang bro, I have a few of those mboards sensor extensions, wish I’d given you them the other day
What do the different colors (blue vs green) for the Hoyt Puck’s light mode indicate?
By light mode, i mean when the remote is on and connected, and you press the power button once to turn on the lights. I notice that sometimes when i do this the lights are green, but other times they are blue. I’m aware that pressing the button 2x turns the lights blue and disables the remote-- this is not what I’m referring to here.
I looked this up on the product page and tutorial video but couldn’t find an answer.
Below 10%, remote will flash and vibrate continuously
This info is directly from hoyt
interesting. i saw it was green when the board was charged to 48v, so maybe something’s up with mine.
What?? Puck led only show remote battery %, nothing else
Also make sure you have another connector plugged into it while soldering so the pins don’t get crooked while melty.
Puck says Green rn, but if the BMS app is to be believed, I’m at 48.5v
Which is odd because last night my Puck stayed blue for my whole ride down to ~44v