Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

What im saying is that i the way my priorities line up, I dont think I would really ever consider a single 6355 on a build due to the low level of power it would afford. I think im the wrong person to give advice on this though, so you should wait for someone with more interest/experience with lightweight stuff to weigh in.

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It totally depends on what kind of board you want. A single 6355 is plenty for a street board but the braking is going to be terrible. Dual 5065 would be better, but I don’t like those [Racerstar] motors as much, they seem to break a lot, they get really hot, and they’re horrible for HFI.

Are you using your drivetrain as a ski lift or as a dragster?

Are you using polyurethane longboard wheels or pneummies?

If the answer to either is the latter, than a single 6355 won’t work for you.

IMHO if you want the smallest, cheapest, and lightest drivetrain that works really well, then you should seriously consider a 1WD 6384, with the drive on the rear heelside.


plan on using the board most on flat land, just for carving really - not for speed or accelerating super quick. I also plan on using DKP trucks and I looked at racestar but I had a hard time finding DKP motor mounts that werent only for 63** motors, so am thinking im stuck with 63**, unless someone is parting out an evolve.

Would be riding thane only - TB 110’s and /or blue cags.

a single 6384 is a good idea. Ive already got some saved for an eMTB, but that wont happen for sometime so may just use one of them.

I’d definitely without a doubt go the single 6384, and don’t use a Kv that’s too low. Like 190Kv on 12s or 190 - 230Kv on 10S, preferably at the higher end

Gear with as much reduction as you can, this means get the most teeth on your wheel pulley. For 110mm wheels, 42T to 44T are awesome and 40T work, 36T are bad. For cags, multiply those tooth counts by 85mm/110mm


$1000 Verses showdown.
Need to know which to choose.
Need one of these for potentially wet and cold winter to come.
JUST ON SPECS and not personal bias as I have my own, which one which is the better option. The 12s3p p42a Molicels and carbon deck is appealing. While the newer flexy bamboo with bigger motors and latest hobbywing esc gets my attention. I’m about 216lbs need a commuter street board running 6 inch pneumatics that can do a 15 mile round trip. Options to tweak maybe motors or esc later. Thanks in advance.

Trusting the specs given by someone profiting financially from sales is often a mistake.

From experience I’d bet the ownboard will be 10x easier to repair

not exactly, the inside of the enclosure is practically fully potted

That’s what I’d expect from Lycaon too.

I’ve heard both companies CS is shit so neither one shines out to me on that front.

And I’d think that when people shop “specs only” they’re crafty enough to overcome the shortcomings of the board through a bit of diy.

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+1 for buying something used

A 12s3p at 12wh per cell (per Mooch @ 10A) is 432 wh / 30-35 wh/mi = 12-14 miles. A 12s4p P42A pack would be a better option.

This is $950 and I would take it over either of those boards in a heartbeat.

Other options:


I think you might have the vesc confused with the controller? There are multiple vesc compatible controllers that will track your mileage the same as it is done on the hobbywing or Ling-yi - local to the controller. I have both a Ling-yi and vesc based setups and the odometer data displayed on the controller is not transmitted to the controller but is developed BY the controller from feedback given from the ESC and then converted or calibrated on the controller

Edit: didn’t see the latest response,

Ownboard customer service has been fine for me, and I’ve heard quite the opposite for Lycaon. A friend of mine has a Bamboo AT Pro and the deck has a nice flex to it - I like it.

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This is incorrect for Ling-Yi controllers. They do not store the miles on the remote and it is stored on the controller.

When I had to buy a new remote after mine finally died, the mileage on the new remote matched what the old remote had after pairing it with the same ESC. No new remote would come with 800+ miles already on it so it can’t even be considered a coincidence that the mileage matched.

If it wasn’t for the fact that the display completely died on that old remote I would try and photograph it as proof. It is also obvious since when I turn my remote on and not the ESC it does not display any millage information at all.

I can confirm that their CS is kind of shit. You’ll eventually get what you’re supposed to but not without delay first. Had to wait over 3 months for a replacement battery since mine died before warranty was up. They claimed they had none in stock yet you could still order a new one from the site the entire time I was waiting.

Said replacement battery died in like 3 months and was very poorly made. The OG battery was well made but just with lower quality cells that didn’t last long.

Some information on the specs that they can’t really list out:

CS issues aside, My board did hold up VERY well to cold and wet weather while in stock configuration. That was why I went with the GR originally since they were the only one with good water proof-ness at the time. They didn’t just pot everything with silicone to make it water tight which is a plus. No idea if that has changed though.

The version you are looking at does have a different enclosure style, but I don’t see why they wouldn’t keep the same build quality at the bare minimum for that version too. Just expect to need a replacement battery in anywhere from 3-9 months if you use it daily. (a spec they would never list on their site)

Repairs are stupid easy with their GR model which is what my board started as. :person_shrugging:(only thing OG left is motors which I am replacing atm oh and the trucks but I like the front truck and I’m only replacing it due to it being shorter than hanger I need for a pulley set up)


That is really interesting, i have a U-box esc and remote - when i connect the remote to the ubox vesc it displays mileage that is different from when it pair it with my Flipsky esc. I assumed that it was local remote databut I wonder if it is using some other bit of info frome the vesc? I don’t have another remote to test it

For the VESCs it does appear that the data is remote stored since others have said it is not a built in feature for VESCs, but I don’t know enough about the U-box to say if that is the case there. Also not all remotes have to even include a tracker

ESCs are a whole different thing even though they do the same thing at the end of the day.

Ubox is VESC

I’ve been looking in the used market but being in the UK my options are limited at the moment.
Free shipping for both boards and I’m able to fix and change base components on these boards. Thanks for your time

Shipping is usually not free, it’s just baked into the item price.

Local pickup is actually “free shipping” if the option is available. I do this frequently.