As long as the connectors are secured against working loose (heatshrink over bullets so they don’t work loose and short together over time), then yes that’s absolutely fine. They’re plenty loose and aren’t binding or rubbing against anything.
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The visible shrink that was near the cans actually pulled loose… think I should give the wires more slack if this is the case?
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Separate question - is there such thing as heat shrink that you can put on after already having run wires? ie not needing to run the wires through the shrink first… I hate having to use electrical tape, didn’t have big enough shrink wrap, and don’t want to open the enclosure again if I don’t have to
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1 inch x 180 feet Black Heat Shrink Tape Non Adhesive Amazon.com
I’ve used this stuff before, it would be better with adhesive on one side, but it works
In theory some kind of stuff like Liquid electrical tape could work on every wire joint and connector… just for most people it would take longer and look worse likely. wrap it all in TESA tape to make that idea work better lol.
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Which version of the ubox do you have? Spintend has a guide: Ubox series product and Firmware Warning! – Spintend
There’s a very high chance your spintend will catch on fire if you don’t have the right firmware. At the end of the spintend guide, they give you the downloads.
Also, if you’re looking for older versions of VESCtool:
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Ive got the correct files, i have the ubox V2 75v 100a dual esc. I have run the v5.3 and the he v6.0 firmware. The 5.3 seemed more stable as in the settings i could get to take never disappeared or reset but it was a nightmare to get vesc tools 6.0 (6.3?) to work with it.
After learning you need to upgrade the boot loader before flashing the 6.0 firmware the upgrade was easy and went really smoothly.
Then i had some issues with my older ennoid bms having the wrong termination resistor destabilized the can bus connection: as explained to me by ennoid - the version of bms i had was terminated with a 120 ohm resistor so the connection resistance dropped below 60ohms causing the can to become unstable/unreliable. I pulled the ennoid bms out of my build and slapped in a cheap llt bms as a fix while he was working with me on a solution and everything started work amazingly. Great throttle response, easily detected both ubox and it ran great for a couple weeks without doing anything weird. Hell i was able to log 150 miles on the metr/davegax and build a little confidence in the control/drive system.
Then i go for a short ride - started working on the lights and leds and troubleshooting the TTL module outputs. Had some success but then out of nowhere on a toeside 10mph turn it throws me into a ditch.
Check the metr and vesc tools and the can id # has changed and my settings are wiped, looks close to default but im not familiar enough to know better. Test and only one motor is getting power when i throttle up and only one side breaks. My fall killed the pot on my puck so I don’t know what happened. Tried to rerun detection and kept loosing connection or getting errors, after fng with it for 45min on the side of the road i was able to just limp home on one motor at 4mph and tried connecting to my pc but that’s when I noticed my puck was acting up and found the bad pot
Grabbed this, thanks for the info. Waiting on more bullet connectors from Amazon so I don’t have to keep swapping/soldering them every time I switch vescs then im going to roll back to 5.2 like you suggested before I completely give up on the ubox lol. Still ordered the skp, is there a way to grab a “break light” signal from the skp? the ttl break light and response when running lights has a 1/4 to 1/2 second delay on the output state change vs the almost instant response of the ubox output so i have been running the break light from the ubox output. i see another compromise for this build in my future lol.
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Have you ever used RTV silicone? If you are careful with it the finished product looks almost as good as shrink, good dielectric properties, comes in black, can be thinned with mineral spirits to use as a potting compound, very water/dust proof, BUT takes 24hrs to setup so no riding until its dry.
Clean the wire opening really good (99%iso and wipe all the dust) and use something to hold the wire wrap in place that can be encapsulated easily. Slide that wire wrap all the way to the motor side with a small tyrap or some string/floss and put a bead of RTV on there then let it set for 20-30 minutes and with gloves gently smooth the surface with your finger after wetting your glove with mineral spirits. if you make sure the bead is thick enough to hold up that shit gets pretty bullet proof. I’ve used it to plug 7/8 holes with temporary masking tap as a backer and even cut off flush when cured holds up really well. The non Loctite stuff they have at auto-parts stores works great imho but amazon link:
What is this?
Like isopropyl or methyl hydrate or acetone?
It’s a petroleum based paint/varnish thinner, I’ve used it for oil based paints and thinning silicone calking and delaying the skin-over of calking to use on waterproofing equipment enclosures, electronics, and fabrics for backpacking. Also cleanup for silicone calking before it sets up - saves a lot of hassle to clean silicone calking before it sets up.
I THINK it displaces the water/moisture that cures neutral silicone preventing it from setting until it has evaporated and also has a super low viscosity so adding a very small amount goes a long way towards making calking brush paintable where that is appropriate
Are vesc Bluetooth modules proprietary or are they all cross compatible? Gonna get a dv6 soon but not from makerx and they don’t have Bluetooth modules. Trying to see if I can get one not from makerx cause of shipping.
I used a Flipsky BLE module on my DV6 and it worked fine
Perfect, thanks.
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Any NRF51822 flashed with the appropriate firmware should work. The wiring for VESC 4 and 6 is different though so if they don’t send you both, make sure you get the V6 compatible one or you’ll have to repin it.
Im on the lookout for an 8s charger. What are my choices?
Id like a higher quality than the cheap chinese brand with optional escaping smoke.
hello,
from what’s on the forum I can’t tell if Onsra’s TKPs
are a good/passable/poor product.
I would like to place them on a hummie deck with some Bergmeisters / Sixshooters. Has anyone tried them and can tell me if they are worth it?
Hey everyone, I have a question about Balancing. It looks like group 10 in my battery is sitting at 4.15V, while all the other groups are at 4.2 volts. I’m assuming this can be fixed by leaving my board plugged in for a while so that It can balance but just double checking because I’m dumb sometimes. I would also like to know if this is a worrisome difference in balance or pretty standard if discharging hard.
Thats a decent gap there, not horrible, not great.
What bms are you using? Most smart(aka BT/can) bms’s can be set to static balance where it balances off the charger above a certain voltage.
Have you been monitoring any charge/discharge cycles to see if that group charges/discharges faster than the other groups?
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