That’s the whole point of using the other connector. The extra thermal mass absorbs some of the heat from the iron so the bullets don’t get toasty enough to move.
2 Likes
Using loctite 648 my keyway keeps coming out of the slot in my BNM1, the slot in the motor is longer than the gear. I have no more loctite left what can I do? I have grub screws and epoxy of various sorts.
Easiest thing to do is list the BN M1 for sale and wait 7 minutes for it to disappear
Well technically… to be pedantic about it, the easier thing to do is nothing 
1 Like
In all seriousness, I’m not sure about options for the long run (since this issue seems to be quite common on BN drives), but maybe try to make sure everything is clean and degreased before reapplying loctite next time and let it cure fully. You’ll probably want to just wait to fix this until you get more loctite btw. doing some janky half fix rn could lead to another failure very soon and is probably just not worth the efford unless you have some urgent need of the board.
The BN M1 market is HOT right now
commuting is kind of a need, I could deal with single drive I guess
1 Like
IMHO if you rely on your board to commute to work and put food on the table, you need at least 3 boards. One in repair and two that run. Don’t take apart one that runs. More than 3 is better.
2 Likes
JB weld the motor pinion onto the motor shaft and don’t look back! Motors are now permanently part of the gear drives but it’s the only thing that got mine to hold haha.
One, take it or leave it.
oof. these motors are specifically temporary and I have definitive plans to upgrade.
JBweld can totally be removed though right?
I was just gonna use a grub screw
1 Like
I’m up to 2 at the moment and both are DIY.
got an evolve in the garage that needs a motor, probably a new battery too by now, and it’s DKP
and if I’m ever desperate, there’s a bent DKP truck with DD motors that I could use. it’s DKP though so I’d have to be pretty desperate.
Here’s what I did if you’re interested
1 Like
Data is fun
I love screen remotes, besides, it’s not just speed you can see on them
4 Likes
It’s nice for keeping an eye on distance, battery level, and motor/esc temps but I only check it when I’m stopped. I can feel how fast I’m going and how saggy my battery is most often. Still have yet to see one with a clock built in so I can time laps or see how much family time I’ve skipping out on
6 Likes
Lol I’ve thought of this, but it requires always-on power trickle, which we probably wouldn’t want
1 Like
Or a seperate CMOS battery
1 Like
It ended up being that mine came updated. It is already on the fixed 1.1 version.
True, I also like having my battery displayed since otherwise I don’t even know how to begin keeping track of my range without buying a smart bms. The main thing I need is the speed though since other remotes that don’t have screens do usually have little leds for battery.
Plus the vx4 allows you to have easy to swap speed modes which is a requirement for me. Sometimes I want to go to a higher torque option just to get up a hill, or to make a light in time, but I don’t want to ride with that all the time. more torque being given by a steeper acceleration curve
you can also use other telemetry like a metr, iLogger, Robogotchi or DaveGa/Davega/Roxie
or what I had to do for the passed week, carry a DMM around to check the voltage and do quick maths on the go
I was looking at the Davega but with my set up there is no good location for it. Also don’t trust myself not to move my foot onto it and then end up loosing my balance because of it. The other stuff would use my phone which I don’t like pulling out while on my board.
My enclosure is made to be as water tight as possible and I’d have to stop on the side of the road for several minutes to open it up to do that 