That’s also not entirely true, you can use an older tool version if you want to.
There are lots of things that can be done.
Not saying what’s the best, but it’s not that straightforward.
as I said,
That is clearly not true when using unity firmware on vesc tool, which is exactly why we are talking about updating via vesc tool
If you run old Vesc tool firmware, then yes, you don’t have to. That is not what this is about though.
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bro just update the thing
It isn’t true, you can use an older tool. Not saying whether you should, but you can.
Why couldn’t you guys be this on top of stuff when helping with the button issues 
although from my time spent searching for answers it seems there just are none.
I did think of one more possible solution to try before adding a loop key: using a different type of button. Just first wanted to confirm that the anti spark present on the focbox is on the pcb itself right? and not the button. Some listings make it seem like the button is the anti spark itself but that doesn’t really make sense 
the button connects to the pcb and isn’t connected to a separated anti-spark pcb
Different button as in one that latches and not a momentary contact like the OG button is. also might try a different momentary contact button since I don’t know if the OG button is always high and the momentary contact goes low, or if it is the other way around. I also don’t know which way the button I have works either though but worth a shot to see if the new firmware wants a different button style
yes
Maybe your AS popped? If you remove the button, disconnect the battery and plug it back in (not the button), does your unity turn on automatically?
The AS didn’t pop it is still working and I’ve tried removing the button and doing the short the pins trick. Didn’t turn it off at all. Button still turns it on but just won’t turn it off after the update.
Plugging the battery up to it without the button connected does nothing. No spark when connecting the cable and also no turning on.
Edit: it does not seem to like the latching button I have. So I guess that rules out the firmware wanting a latching button input
I’m just saying that changing your firmware is a technical decision that should be done on its merits, and not just because someone with different goals than you, said you should.
Because it hasn’t been updated in 3 years
Also, it sounds very much like you have cooked the antispark circuit in the unity. It happens. Short the mom pins and use a loop key or send the focbox to a wizard to get it fixed.
Have you tried running the nrf remote wizard to get the vx4 to work? Control modes set to UART?
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I’m looking for a wiring diagram for one of these fuckers
Maxkgo lighting module thing
Does anybody know what pins from the Uart are needed? I’m hoping to be able to use the secondary Uart port on my 60D+ that I was asking about here
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You need 5V, GND, TX, and RX
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Nope, the anti spark is 1000% still working. Not that hard to figure out since if it was cooked then you’d hear a spark when plugging it into the battery. Even my ESCs do that none of which have antisparks
The plan is to use use the button for power but add a shitty loopkey. Shitty because it isn’t the XT 90 with a resistor in it since I don’t need it to have it.
Not done yet and needs more solder:
That never worked, but also I have no fucking clue how I did manage to get it to work in the end. All I know is it works and I know a bunch of things to try until it works again if I flash firmware to it again. after flashing new firmware the remote will break, but changing settings in app or for the motors is fine
Sure, but the circuitry is likely broken and not allowing you to turn off the esc. This has been an extremely common failure mode for the unity.
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I like the VX4 but it kinda has that track record. Doesn’t work, then try a bunch of random shit and it eventually works but no one is quite sure what they did to get it to work.
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It worked fine before the firmware update and absolutely nothing happened that would have fried it. I don’t feel like flashing the old firmware but if I did it would still work to turn it off. I would have heard and smelled it if I fried and and it would spark when connecting to the VESC if it was dead 
Sounds a lot like nearly every other case of fucked unitys i have heard of.
I’m not saying it definitely is the case, but its extremely likely given their track record.
I’m all for bashing vesc, but i don’t think it’s guilty in this circumstance.
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Yup, before I bought a stormcore I had a unity from @PropulsionBoards which they got from massive stator. Lasted all of three minutes before I heard a pop and smelt the burn, and that was the end of the unity. To be fair to propulsion boards though, they were very good about it and refunded immediately.
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There is a great thread on soldering that will help these to look better. It looks like not enough heat is being applied and the wire is wicking up the solder
Another tip for soldering xt60/90 is to have the connector plugged in, esp to something that has wires on it. It acts as a heatsink and prevents the pins from melting the plastic and going out of alignment
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