disconnect the motor completely, don’t do it while its connected to the ecs
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Touch 2 of the 3 phases together, then turn the motor by hand. With that you can count each magnet as it will “click” into place for each one.
Fully disconnect the Motor first
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really ? I was dead sure shorting to phase only brakes it
Doesn’t do any harm as long as it is fully disconnected and doesn’t receive power
yeah I know, was just saying I never thought about it as a mean of counting poles, empiric knowledge was that it just prevent the motor from rotating ^^
I ask question in the noob thread but I still have a good few builds at my active xD
edit : I meant brake not break (it’s late here, my brains doesn’t had enough sleep to proced decent english)
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it causes braking, but only shorting two wires rather than all three causes choppy, discontinuous braking, and each “hump” or peak of braking force is one magnet pair. Therefore you can count the number of pole pairs by shorting two phase wires and rotating the motor.
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Still gives me a good 5km/h difference between speed and gps speed
I’ll try counting them later today
Wheel size also plays a role in estimating speed. Sometimes a 90mm wheel is actually 92mm or something
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Sometimes I wonder if measuring axle center height off ground is worth doing or if the difference is negligible. Probably on polyurethane it’s almost certainly negligible.
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So 26 poles give me arround 2km/h average more than the gps, and is pretty similar in deceleration, I’ll try with 28 next ride
Edit : I tried the two wire short and counting the clicks, counted 166 for a full cicle ^^" no idea what to do with this
The og unity app measured a 12.7 factor for erpm to rpm, can I calculated the number of poles based on this ?
Maybe this could help?
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Well, I had stormcore issues, and they went from bad to worse. The stormcore doesn’t turn on. Not with the button, not by shorting the BTN/ MOM pins and not even a different vesc button.
If anyone has any idea what I can do then I’d appreciate the advice. Thanks.
You can try the troubleshooting steps here to see what’s going on
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So the manual is a bit unclear on what to do with the extra, and completely separate bat+ lead on the vx4 remote.
Why I am confused is because the PPM connections on my VESC is already supplying the receiver with the needed 5v power and the manual claims that using PPM doesn’t allow the remote to display data. So I don’t know why it would then want/use the voltage directly from my battery. Although the english in the manual isn’t the best so I could be misunderstanding what they mean by ppm having “no data display”
Unrelated to my build, but since the remote’s receiver includes extra pins for a second transmit and receive pinout then does that mean you could use it to control two separate controllers?
Batt+ will show you battery level when connected to your pack positive. It uses the ground pin in the UART port as the 0V reference.
It’s not using Batt+ for power, it’s just checking the voltage. (Like your DMM)
They mean if you plug in to only PWM pins then you lose telemetry to the display as there will be no battery level sense and no Tx/Rx to send data.
If you want to use PWM and Bat+ but not the rest of the UART you won’t get any info on the display besides battery level, the rest of the display info is calculated on the remote using your throttle amount and input ratios.
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The diagram doesn’t show it being used at all for UART mode though.Which I had assumed meant that the VESC was just sending that data on the transmit pin. (I may also just be getting confused since my VESC has a separate area for PPM control and UART control so I might be misunderstanding what you mean by UART port )
Also my VESC does not have a bat+ pin on any of these pins (IDK what name to use for them)
There is a completely desperate pin for bat+ and bat- but that was was intended to be used for a separate display. Which I can use if needed but I just don’t want to mess up the receiver by plugging into it if it isn’t meant to be used for UART mode.
This is normal.
When referring to PWM we’re talking about 3 pins grouped together: 5v, GND and PWM(sense)
With UART it changes from VESC to VESC but typically we’re referring to: 3.3V and/or 5V, Tx, Rx, GND
UART ports will often have 1-3 ADC pins in them too, but those aren’t necessary for our uses.
It won’t be on your VESC. If you want to use Batt+ you’ll want to splice a wire into your positive line from your battery. Typically I’d do this on the ESC side of your XT90s
So then I should use the bat+ while using the UART mode? even though the diagram for the controller didn’t include it?
Except for this one:
it is just in a separate area and meant for a display I don’t even have anyway. So long as the controller doesn’t expect the signal to use more current than 150 mA it should work.
So they just left out the fact that I need to connect to bat+ in UART mode? or is that only accurate for older remotes. VX4 doesn’t show it being needed If I knew what data is being sent over the transmit and receive pins then all of this would have been much more clear as well. Since I’d know if the battery data was sent with the rest of the data or not and wouldn’t need to rely on the possibly incorrect diagrams in the manual