Or just don’t try to catch any falls on your hands? I’ve only ever gotten super minor scrapes on my hands during falls. No burns at all unless it was a super small 1st degree burn that I forgot was even there
Now, if you live somewhere cold, then I do suggest you get gloves so that you don’t let your hands freeze and can’t use the remote. no one makes sk8 gloves that fit me anyway and I refuse to pay way too much to get gloves that don’t even fit. Never really had any problems without them during my many falls
If you wait to get a helmet, just go buy one from a local bike shop. Those are still very common and it will provide way more protection than the skate helmets will. (unless it is a full face helmet marketed to esk8. Those ones, if they exist, will provide enough protection)
It’s all in how you fall and unless you’ve spent time forcing your body to behave against its nature your hand is “coming to the rescue” when you go down.
35 years after a 3-4mph fall coming back down a ramp and the carpal bones of my right hand still pop out of place if I don’t exercise the muscles regularly (ligaments all got destroyed when my wrist shattered).
Still, will take a helmet over gloves everyday of the week and twice on Sunday. But would rather be wearing both
Ahh it seems my “cringey” teenage years might have worked in my favor then. That is the only time where I actively tried to change my reflexes. Used to go to the park and run on the loose boulders placed in a drainage ditch even for fun.
I fall elbows and knees first and then the base on my palm hits the surface at the very end or not at all. I’ve never owned or used elbow and knee pads either and yet that is still how I have fallen almost every time.
Exceptions are when I fall backwards which means directly onto my ass. RIP my already damaged tail bone Or one time in the mud it resulted in a baseball home base slide of a fall somehow. Still no idea how that happened tbh
I do know how annoying it is to have shit connective tissues. Sometimes it can help you avoid broken bones but other times it is just annoying. Joints are weak in rotation leading to the most common breaks, but strong in all other cases Wrists would suck more since there aren’t a ton of muscles in the area you can build up to add more stability like there are near the ankles. Or at least it is easier to build up muscles in the legs
I really appreciate everyones response, this forum is great! definitely going to be taking what y’all said into consideration especially making sure if the battery would even fit on the darn board as well as making sure im suited up before i decide to hit the road.
@ShutterShock if not mistaken, your youtube videos have helped me alot in this process and will be using what you told me about the DV6 or DV4 along with your ur in depth video about setting it up.
@MacKeeper28 imma shoot you a dm rn about if that enclosure is still available. @ b264 you make some great points and going to be looking more into that thread that you linked to.
again this community is great and thank you for the help.
@MacKeeper28 i am an idiot and can’t figure out to PM you. I’m interested in the fiberglass enclosure that you mentioned if still available will definitely buy.
Also, regarding the torque boards drivetrain bundle this was also what I was afraid of happening. I thought since it would be my first build that this might work well since all the shit is included. I know boardnamics looks to got some pretty decent setups. Any other suggestions?
I’ll PM you to put you in touch. You probably don’t have PM permissions yet from being new.
If you’re light, the TorqueBoards setup might last ok. I weigh 135lb and haven’t had bending problems on the trucks that come with their direct drives. If not, start searching the forums for used/new parts sales. You can usually find some deals there. This thread has a lot of things you’d need:
Also, BN220s are on sale direct from Boardnamics.
For wheels, I’d pick these TB110s up if it’s in your budget:
I’m in the process of planning my first build and was wondering if any of these parts are bad choices, aren’t compatible with each other, or if I’m missing anything.
Deck: Fluxmotion AT2
Battery: 16s 6p by SKP
ESC: SKP Solo
Motors: Radium 6485 151 kv
Trucks: Trampa Vertigo
Hubs: Trampa Megastar Deepdish
GD: BN M1 AT 4.60
Tires: SKP 175
Radium anti-sink plates
Devega X
Remote: Hoyt Puck (gonna 3d print a different shell.)
Still need to figure out a power switch and a charger.
Skyart sells chargers that could go with his battery. Looks like a solid build sheet. Do the BN drives fit the Trampa Vertigo trucks ok? Haven’t seen those trucks mentioned a whole lot.
I’m not sure haha, I’m going to order the parts in the next week or so. On the Boardnamics website there’s an option for the Trampa trucks, so I’m assuming they will fit fine. I saw that Skyart sells chargers as well, but I’ve always wanted the kind of charger with the three pin connector, like the Lacroix chargers. They are super beefy and tbh I just want that kind of connector because it looks cool. I was searching on amazon, and it looks like they sell just the connectors, which I could then solder to an existing charger. Radium High Performance Battery Charger for Electric Skateboards Longboards Eskate Esk8 DIY – Radium Performance Though I am not competent whatsoever in soldering, and I’m not looking to start any fires.
You could always ask @Skyart about a different connector on the battery and charger. I have one of his 12s8p with regular barrel plug and charger and no complaints at all.
Oh yeah I have no doubt at all the barrel connector works great, I’m just a nitpicker and want my board to be perfect hah. It’s definitely a form over function thing in this case. I very well might go with the barrel plug anyways, and then maybe swap connectors down the line.
Only problem is the only 16s option has no connector included. I’m sure I could solder it, but I would definitely need to practice first. But yeah I agree all the radium stuff looks super high quality.
Oh that would be super cool! I just gotta figure out how to attach it board side now. On a similar vein, are there any wiring tutorials or guides out there? I have a general idea of where the motor and sensor wires go, and where the battery connects to the esc, but nothing other than that. Mainly looking for where I need to attach the remote receiver, as well as accessory stuff like the power button, charge port, and lighting. Since I’m also going to have a devega on my board, would that connect to the UART port?
It’s pretty straightforward once you have everything in front of you. The Hoyt puck receiver will connect to the PPM input on the ESC, Davega will connect to UART port.
I’ve only ever gotten super minor scrapes on my hands during falls. No burns at all unless it was a super small 1st degree burn that I forgot was even there 
