good question. I think youre probably right in that there is some way to set this up which would allow this to work with no or minimal gasket. Im doing some things which add unnessecrey thickness such as wrap both fish paper and strapping tape around my p groups (negligable thickness addition) and add velcro between by battery and the enclosure (~2mm thickness addition) Im also using a staggered p group arrangement though (2.9mm thickness savings over straight config). I’m using 12awg wire instead of braid which probably dosnt help my situation, and my solder joints are probably a couple mm taller than they need to be in a place or 2. Just from looking at it, i think it would be hard to even fit my p groups in here without any solder or series connections due to the inside height of the enclosure though.
My guess is that this thing is meant to very tightly fit a very specific battery config with a very specific gasket. I have neither the “proper” layout nor gasket because none of this is mentioned on the web page, so my battery simply does not fit as intended. I do not mean to slander eboosted—the enclosre seems to be quite high quality—but this one annoyance I’m dealing with is very much an annoyance and is causing me quite a lot of headache.
Yes, and the Garmin is by far more accurate. The regular metr works by sending ESC data over bluetooth to your phone then relies on the phone’s GPS for position tracking. My phone (Galaxy S10) will often not record a section at all, or sometimes the app will freeze up if I use the camera and take pictures during the ride or something.
The Garmin does all the logging with it’s own internal GPS chip and saves everything to the watch’s memory. Once the ride is over then it syncs that log to the phone/cloud for viewing. This seems to eliminate all the phone problems associated with logging.
The watch screens are fully customizable right on the watch so you can choose what you want to display, like speed, distance, distance to go, time, sunset time, ride time, etc.
Some models even have navigation which I use all the time. You create a route either on the phone app or in a computer browser and then sync it to the watch. It will display a map and give you turn by turn directions by vibrating/beeping before a road turn, or doing a different type of vibrating if you are off course. It’s great for longer rides where you just want to ride great roads and not focus on where you have to go.
The Garmin Connect app/ecosystem is really polished too. It’s definitely geared more for exercise than just tracking rides, but works great for that too. There is a whole app store that adds a lot of customization.
Also works as a regular smart watch, and the battery lasts a solid week if not using the GPS.
That thing is really little! As long as it fits nicely in the pocket it should be good. dcrainmaker has some great reviews, both in blog format and YouTube on most Garmin devices.
The only feature it seems to lack, if it’s important to you, is the ability to get turn by turn directions using a road map. It looks like it will follow a standard track only, which will prompt you at every curve rather than every road turn.
Couple questions for my first full build I’m working on:
Mounting/positioning of the BMS. Is it a faux pas to mount the BMS to the top of the ESC via something like velcro, or something else that will hold up but be removable down the road if need be? I have a Stormcore with a heatsink that I will be running, so I wasn’t sure if having the BMS on top of the ESC is no bueno (probably not covering it, but sitting maybe half on it)
Hoyt puck receiver. I saw a file for a little case you can 3D print for the receiver which would make for a clean mounting job inside the enclosure. Will this affect the signal at all? Was thinking just simple PLA for material.
Anyone else with hall sensor issues on 5.3? I couldnt get my stormcore to detect one side, same with my flipsky. The flipksy works on 5.1, can the stormcore be downgraded as well? What versions of vesc tool are compatible?
It MIGHT BE a chassis connection, for safety only.
In case something in the motor were to short out or break, it would prevent the motor case from becoming hot, and presenting a shock hazard. Typically by blowing a fuse somewhere else.
If the vehicle itself doesn’t have a metallic chassis, then it might be rather pointless.
