Some escs have a built in antispark switch, and historically they haven’t been extremely reliable.
There are also standalone antispark switches, and again, they have questionable reliability.
The loop key is a simple, cheap and effective way to turn your board on/off without worrying about your shit exploding in your face.
Haha been there. Battery fire, first build. Don’t do this 
That’s what I’m terrified of in my first build 
I was pretty drunk, and soldered a battery connector in reverse polarity. Plugged in and lipo explosion haha. No harm no foul. Good lesson
Just do lots of reading, keep asking direct questions, and share photos and information of parts of your build you are unsure of before you do the stupid shit.
Plenty of helpful peeps round here that want nothing more for you to build your board safely.
I can expand on @glyphiks answer
It’s cheap, ugly, really high quality, and effective. It’s that “ugly” bit that some folks don’t like, and essentially the entire reason all the other methods exist at all. It’s definitely not a refined user experience like pressing a button. It’d be like if you bought a nice new car, and to start it, you had to move a wire under the hood.
So glad that when I did something similar it was with NiMH batteries so they didn’t get damaged and the only causality was the wire insulation being burned off into my hand. I saw smoke, grabbed the battery pack directly with my hand and was heading to the kitchen for the fire extinguisher. A step away from my desk I realized I just short circuited the batteries to each other and cut the wire.
Wanted to test them in series after wiring the holder for parallel use and was too tired to realize the wiring for the terminals needed to be changed first. 2nd degree heat and chemical burns to the palm of my left hand. 
Had to explain several times that if it was an electrical burn I’d be dead or at least all the nerves in my hand would be since the batteries could each put out more than 30 amps (although at like 2.5v i think? Can’t remember the exact voltage)
10 miliamps across the heart or brain = death
In Nuke school we had a few weeks working on a radar system that had 17KV running through sections. Had to wear thick rubber gloves when you work on them and ensure there were no pinholes. For new ETs you’d always reassure them, “Don’t worry, it’s not the voltage that will kill you”
And of course they always respond saying “it’s the current.”
“No, it’s your neck snapping when you hit the wall behind you”
Everyone checked their gloves for pinholes each and everytime 
I don’t and will not do any work with high voltage stuff for that reason. You can do everything right safety wise but then one little thing is messed up and you’re dead or the building is damaged. Also my university did not have any training for high voltage stuff but even if they did I wouldn’t do it.
“death cables” aka having to cut a power cable and strip it is high voltage enough for me, and then I’d be okay working on the control system for a set up that included high voltage components but that is it.
High current alone doesn’t bother me though since flesh has high resistance so it’s safer and also last I checked high current but with low or medium voltage can’t arc across large distances.
2.5v is nowhere near enough to get 30A through your hand.
I know that but the nurses and doctors didn’t hence me explaining that I would be dead if it was able to cause any electric burns.
On a a scale of 1-10, how torque torquey would you consider the following setup. 1 being boosted v1 and 10 being SRB.
42:17 (2.47:1) reduction, 150mm wheels, 100 motor Amps per side, reacher v5 6384s, 2wd, 205kv 12s
0 voters
12s 190kv?
Did you write the config to the vesc in the wizzard? Should work right away. Set your throttle type and calibrate the top and bottom end and then write it.
Yeah, well pretty close. 205kv
Thats gonna blow for torque.
I just had the semendeed set up on 48:18 190kv with 120mm wheels on 16s and it had like zero torque.
12s 2.8 190kv 90a 150mm left me wanting a bit more. Its fun enough, but not really torqy on take off.
This setup is the minimum i would go with.
Someone voted 1, that shit is gonna be way stronger than a Boosted V1 LOL
Is it possible to have something geared for 45 mph that still is torquey? (I mean with standard motors we use, obviously SRB and company have figured their stuff out ) I used the eskate calc lol to get my ratio and I’m thinking the efficiency setting may have screwed me over a bit.
Mostly a thought exercise but are there any suggestions for how to do enclosure validations without as much risk of catastrophic failure? I was thinking through how to check out the strength of a 3d printed enclosure and the only thing I could think of is to mount your actual electronics on top and put an equivalent weight in the test enclosure below. Still feels like a bit of a roll of the dice because you can’t know if you just got lucky and didn’t hit something that’d kill it