No matter if your motor is 6064 or 80100, the size category is still the Medium Outrunner. For other motor types and sizes, please choose accordingly.
It also weighs: 858g and not nearly 2k as suggested for large outrunners in the VESC tool interface. I am getting conflicting information, which is why I am asking here. I believe it is still a medium outrunner, but I am just not 100% sure
They have the weights listed in the VESC tool. I’ve found that the 750g outrunner works well for most 6374 through 63100 motors. Those options just set the amps that is used during detection, so most of those outrunner modes will work, but if the amps are too low during detection you may get bad results and it will run poorly. If you try to run 50A through a tiny drone motor you will also have a bad time.
The setup process is basically:
Run the motor config saying yes to resetting defaults. Plug in all the correct values like poles, voltages, battery amp limits, etc. After it spins up compare the results between both motors. They won’t be exact but will be fairly close.
Then run the input wizard
Then go for a ride and adjust the motor → current settings until it rides the way you want. Usually 80A is a good max for the motor, and -60 to -80 motor amps for braking. Battery regen affects high speed braking, so setting it higher than the battery’s charge rate is what most people do to get some decent braking at speed. The short pulse of power is probably not a significant concern but we don’t know for sure.
One of mine kind of destroyed itself and I need a replacement but don’t know where to get them or what they’re called. The other hub motors I have might have one I can steal from it but if not I need to buy new ones
As the rpm approaches zero, power approaches zero. Spin the motor faster. When you’re holding it, it’s near or at zero speed.
Set motor current (phase amps in the chart above) higher than battery current. That particular motor is rated for 50A so I would enter 50A and -50A in the top boxes. Setting the battery/power_supply current at 10A or 20A is fine. You won’t have low speed torque if you put low numbers in the top box.
The bottom panel controls erpm and you’re measuring rpm probably. They will be directly proportional by the number of magnetic pole pairs. A 14 pole motor has 7 pole pairs. So in theory erpm = 7 · rpm
Looks to be the same thing, thanks. The name is pretty descriptive of what they look like but with better words than “wobbly” washer The other hub motors don’t use them at all so looks like it is time to try and find the same dimensions online or just try stacking normal washers to take up the same amount of space inside.
It sits between the strator shaft and the bottom bearing which is pressed into the rotor, so I’m not sure how it managed to come loose. It sits on the non moving shaft so it might be a good idea to try putting some locktite on the new one to see if that will stop it from coming off again if anyone thinks that is a bad idea please tell me though
enclosure vibrations and how do we deal with them?
I have 1/2 in of eva foam between my deck and enclosure. It goes: Deck->Foam-3dp enclosure and everything in the enclosure is velcroed down, with a few mm space between the battery and foam.
The way you see esk8 batteries constructed in 2022 is designed for that to not happen. Put thin foam under each P-group and connect them with flexible wires. OR make a solid brick-style battery that doesn’t flex.
The older 2018-ish methods are bad and you will often get broken welds and other problems.
Well it’s more because there are lots of different ways to make a battery and the way I’d use foam or if I’d use foam could vary a lot based on how the battery is constructed.
Anywhere if you were to probe with a voltmeter, you would see something other than 0.0 volts. Between different P groups is one of many instances of that.
Fishpaper is both more heat resistant, and far more abrasion resistant, and also doesn’t compress under pressure over time.